3406b model

Anything above1550 RPM you are burning a lot of fuel for nothing. and on the Jake switch there is actually a proper way to hook them up there is a brass and silver terminal on the good ones and the power goes to the silver terminal. You can go to 1200 degrees on the Pyro after the turbo but I do not like it any higher 900 is a little cool. Just a thought!

 

i know on 1 thread here they said to keep the tach around 1400,but i thought that might be for the e model

 

i'm getting my temps from the oem gauge on a 1993 pete,so i don't know if that is before or after the turbo.

 

It is after, no OEM puts a pyro in the manifolds, not since the 8V92's or 3408's. Just a thought!

 

Ok I had 97 glider pete 4 axle with a built b 18 with auxillary 4 speed and 4.56's. I was putting 721 to the ground and pulling anywhere from 200 to 255k average weight and long hard pulls on hot days my pyro wouldn't get over 1000 on pyro with the screws turned almost all the way out its all in the timeing turbo nozzles so on and so forth your not gonna hurt it running that temp but would suggest giveing it some more power and you will gain fuel mileage and power once you figure out how to drive it right. Good luck

 

Do you know which turbo you had on that? I had the or5733 (i think the tag is messed up) on mine and it never ran hot. I wasn't putting down that much HP but it was a good turbo. Still got it under the bench, just needs rebuilt.

 

I started with 7w9568 or if you need the or number its or6957 and that was on a stock b then had million and ahalf tore the motor down and went back with a holset from richard at antrim in green castle. Probably would have made more power going with his twin turbo set up. I hope that is of some help for you I would have to find the receipt for turbo that was on it last give some time and I will find it. What nozzles you running cam etc.?

 

I've got the BW 119199/199119 (always get it backwards) the OR3421 injectors, the cam is stock OR3787, which i'm told isn't the right cam for my motor but according to cat sis it is. Best cam would be the 3013 for mine, from what i've been told. Boost is only at max 26lbs and should be 35lbs. Still haven't figured out where it went?

 

Ok that turbo and them nozzles should be pushing up around 32 to 35 lbs of boost.what do you have your screws on the pump set at? Also how do you have air fuel ratio set at as well? Next qeustion would be how much power are you wanting to put out? I got a friend right now pulling super loads all the time with his and its stock. Just spoke with him he said his pyro normally runs between 1100 and 1200 degreese and he says don't sweat it. Personally I wouldn't run anything over 1000 myself. The reason your temps fall when you drop a gear and get higher rpm's is b models are high rpm motors to begin with. I use to run mine between 1600 and 1900 daily. With what you got there should have plenty of power just might need to run higher rpm's to keep it cooler and to get more power check your timing advance and see where its at ran mine 8 degrees advanced most of the time and when really wanting to crank it up 13 degree's advanced. Sorry for being long winded and writing this novel. Anything else I can help with feel free to ask.

 

Timing is best at 18* static and 21.5* advance and the start screw at 1300rpm's. IIRC this is best with the right cam according to Tony Welch whos helped me ALOT and is very appreciated. You may even know him.

The problem started a cpl years ago when the diaphgram went out. I was pulling 30 lbs of boost. When I got it back later that night I had no get up and go and no boost. I've done everything but change the cam in the fuel pump. Can't think of anyhting they could've messed with in the top part of that govenor?

Mines the early 4MG. It runs the best at around 1500rpms, i've been lugging it down to 1250/1300 and its still pulling good. Turbo's been running at 900-950.