this is where im stuck
Take the line and 2) 1/4" bolt cover off the air fuel ratio on the very back and top of the gov. Nothing there to be scared of. Grab the plunger stem with plyers and break the 7/16" jam nut loose with box end wrench, Turn screw all the way in until just leaving enough threads to lock down. Not real precision, just set it anywhere tight. Re-assemble... On the very bottom of the rear of the gov. towards the outside (frame side) is another 1" tall 1/4" bolt cover. Remove the bolts, one on top of the other this time, and smack down on the cover with a screwdriver and hammer. The harder the better. It'll leave the gasket perfectly intact for reassembly that way. Again, nothin to screw up so have at it. Facing in from the back stick your pinky in the slotted hole and push in on that thing. Just face the front of the truck, turn palm up and stick it in.
the AFRC appears to be made in two parts i take it i disconnect that hard line and the 2 screws holding that back piece onto the AFRC?
3406b pump mod help!!
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by flc120, Aug 14, 2012.
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yeah but thats 3 turns behind the AFRC
how many turns on the fuel screws behind the plate?
i dont have a boost guage. where can i plumb one on the intake on the pressure side or air filter side? -
OK you got it backwards.... Turn the AFRC screw in as many times as you want but leave enough to lock the jamnut, its only one screw.
Behind the plate at the bottom of the pump is where the 2 fuel screws are. There are jam nuts on the screws in there also. Good thing to do is find a allen wrench to fit them screws that way its easier to count the turns. Screw them out.
While your playing with the fuel pump look up at your intake, there should be a plug there that you can run a boost gauge from.flc120 Thanks this. -
"OK you got it backwards.... Turn the AFRC screw in as many times as you want but leave enough to lock the jamnut, its only one screw"
so when i take off the AFRC the nut i have to turn will stay on pump or will it be on the side i have loose in my hand?will anything come flying out of there when i loosen? (springs or something)
"Behind the plate at the bottom of the pump is where the 2 fuel screws are. There are jam nuts on the screws in there also. Good thing to do is find a allen wrench to fit them screws that way its easier to count the turns. Screw them out"
how many turns do i screw out on the fuel screws? 3 on each screw? -
Yeah 3 on each one for starters.
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ok well i just got in from working on the pump i was able to see how to tune the 2 set screws for FUEL on the bottom of the pump. I think i did them right counter clockwise 3 turns out (to unscrew) i did one right on the other i think spun a turn when i went to tighten not the most space in that area.
My question is, is there a way to reset the bottom 2 set screws for the fuel to get both of them right on point? like can i screw one in all the way and count turns or screw one out all the way to count turns?
i just want to make 100% sure that both of them are set equally and not one more then the other. (or does it not matter if its not presice on both screws?)
i reved it up at idle and it seemed to put out more smoke at high rpm then before didnt road test will do tomorrow.
i want to try and tackle the adjustment of the AFRC....
thanks for the help LES -
i did notice you cant see were youre working in there as i had to setup a rear view mirrow on top of the starter at an angle to see what i was doing after i moved my hand the allen screw part appears to be sticking out about .5"-1" its hard to tell but they are out past the locknut.
what i did notice is that when you push in on the set screws they push in and then slowly pull back out. Is this normal?
also whats the point to having 2 set screws does each one have a tuning purpose? i want to understand what i just played with. does it matter if one might be turned out more then the other upon adjustment?
and in regards to the AFRC?
so when i take off the AFRC the nut i have to turn will stay on pump or will it be on the side i have loose in my hand?will anything come flying out of there when i loosen? (springs or something) -
Sorry had to run....
If you're not sure on the screw on the right(closest to the motor)side just screw it out one turn. I've played with those and the right screw is out further than the one on the left and it didn't seem to make much difference. There is a name for them, one is the torque screw, can't remember the other at the moment. Fuel rise screw I think. Torque is on the right I think?
There are a cpl other guys who can tell you what everything is and what it does, I can't remember all that stuff.
As for the AFRC valve, just take off the cover that the metal line is hooked to. There is a lot of stuff in that valve internally and if you lose the one little spring, the truck will run like crap. So please only take those two bolts out. You will see the ones i'm talking about. When you do you will see the screw and jam nut and just do as that article says.
If you do ever take the AFRC off the pump you will notice you have to tilt it. There is a reason for that.... It has a rod that goes into the pump and it has nail head on it, it fits into a fork and that's how it works. You can cut the end of that head off, but I must warn you, it will smoke(!!!!) every time you tap the pedal it will blow black smoke. -
These are the screws you turned out and the block they area attached to...
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so these right here i did right by turning them out 3 full turns? wasnt to much?
are these to add power? or to dump fuel for smoke?
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