3406b questions

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by W923, Apr 17, 2024.

  1. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    Little update
    I got a egt gauge installed, the probe is about 3 inches behind the turbo. According to the gauge my previous egt estimate was off considerably…actual gauge readings
    Idle 200
    With pto pumping oil 300
    Empty trailer at 55 on flat ground 1500 rpm 6-700 boost 6 psi
    Loaded 55 flat ground 1500 rpm close to 950 10 psi boost
    Pulling a hill same temp 17 psi
    Pulling a hill at 2100 rpm 17 psi
    900 degrees
    Timing problem???
    Wondering how reliable the advance is because a couple times it seemed to want to run 700 degrees pulling hard 1500 rpm 17 psi boost
    It was only pin timed with error on the side of being fast…is the timing pin hole in a different spot on a c15 flywheel…i hope not
     
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  3. Isafarmboy

    Isafarmboy Road Train Member

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  4. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    I would say it’s to make more room for the drivers feet. The engine has about the back 6 inches in the cab and there’s a noticeable amount more floor on the driver’s side of the doghouse than the passenger side
     
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  5. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    High EGT is almost always an air problem. Timing doesn’t have that big an impact on EGT. Could be the back side of turbo… if something went through it. From the previous damage it’s hard to say
     
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  6. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    Kinda my thoughts too, just thinking there would be some smoke if I was short enough on air to make egt problems and at least on my old Cummins it seemed the timing would make a difference but it also was changing the valve timing to.
    Do you know what turbo was supposed to be on a 3zj 425? I can’t really tell what is on the tag but I do know it’s.75 a/r on the cold side and 1.58 on the hot side.
    I have an s400 if I remember right that had been on a customers c15 it’s a 1.1 ar exhaust with a gate…would that be worth trying or is there something better/known to work.
     
  7. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    A 3ZJ be gated as well but that C15 with 1.10 should be for a set of compounds, if it’s a 1.41 or 1.42 it is a single and will work really well but leave the gate functional

    I like the old 1.58 hot side with the .86 cold side as far as the the old turbos go they light a little hard but when they light you don’t run outta air that’s for sure
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2024
  8. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    I remember you taking 2 engines making 1 not sure which pump to use etc. if you used the AFRC cover with the o ring seal you have to use the back part of AFRC valve without the 2 holes in cover. The o ring won’t cover the 2 holes. That’s for the older gasket style.
     
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  9. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    Yes I had 2 engines but really only used the one to get the parts needed for a ford application (flywheel housing, mounts, exhaust manifold and a few other unimportant little trinkets). The other engine was a good runner and just resealed and put bearings and injectors in it. I am using the pump timing advance and turbo that it was running on when I got it.
    Unfortunately I don’t think I am going to be able to use that gated turbo from the c15 because of the way the turbo hangs from the manifold. I actually forgot about the other new turbo I had in the back room. It is a 171702 for all the more it will cost me to thow it on there I’m going to try it.
     
  10. W923

    W923 Road Train Member

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    I did end up using the 171702 turbo…I don’t know how it compares to some of the other borg warner upgrades that have been mentioned on here but I am quite happy with it. I am normally seeing around 600 degrees on flat land and mild hills grossing about 90k. Pulling a long hard grade it would top out at 750-800 as long as I keep the rpm above 1500
    There is no visible smoke under load nothing much when shifting even with the arfc removed. Boost is around 22 psi and builds fast. Since everything seems to be working well I decided to back the screws out. I went 4 rounds which made a considerable difference in pulling power and gets the boost to around 32psi egts really didn’t change much unless I lug it down and then I am guessing it will pass 1000 pretty easy… still burning very clean
    I then backed the screws out 3 more rounds just for fun, not sure if I want to leave it that hot but as of now no one else drives it. At 7 rounds out it will make around 40psi boost and it is possible to get the egt to 1000 at 1500 rpm. higher rpm it’s not a problem as 875 is pretty well the top however the radiator capacity is a little light especially in the upper 80s and low 90 temps. It will pass an n14 set at 525 and 1850 pretty easy on a grade even though he’s 10-15k lighter on gross. Part of me says im flirting with disaster and part of me says its only gonna work as hard as I ask it… so does anyone know what the weak spot on these 3zj cats is I am not at all concerned about the rest of the driveline…its 1880 joints with plenty heavy tubes, 46 k rears and an 1850 transmission
     
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  11. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    The screws hold the rack bar from going too far back and letting the edge of a scroll gear catch on it which causes a burr and wipes out pump cam. Naturally depending on stock rack travel settings somewhere around 6 is max any farther and you run into the negative and it moves scroll past full open limiting fuel again.I have turned them back in one turn and actually make it run better cause they were out too far. Also with the screws backed out it’s the same concept as turning the rail pressure up on a big cam it’s hard on the cam, but it’s the pump cam on a B not the engine of course. None of this is a quick thing, it takes a hot minute to show up so certainly not anything to once’s over. If your happy there it oughta ride a while. The fuel isn’t really where you’re flirting with disaster if the timing is close it’s not a big deal. If your timing is fast at all it’s gonna be a big deal quickly. Having a working pyro will get you outta tight spots. I’ve never tried the 171702 turbo in my opinion it’s a bit small and runs outta air up top. (Just my thoughts again never having actually run one on mine) I’m a fan of the 0001 which is a 78 or 80 in a 1.45 housing. Billet wheel. 360 degree thrust bearing instead of 270 etc. What I expect out of a truck and what you expect is totally different as we do very different jobs with our trucks. So what works for me may not be absolute best for you I say stick with what you know is proven
     
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