7E5888 is what I call a C model fuel pump..
Really makes no difference at this point, but I can tell you this, thats not the one you want for turning the screws out..
Other B models have a different casting number unless its a reman.. And there is some difference even though they look and work the same way.. That's for another time though..
Now you are better off it is a C with the wider bearings, reason I was saying that about engine arrangement as the computers have it listed, as they did interchange for that one year..
Did you mean a 13 or 18 speed??
If your 15 is an overdrive then you probably wouldn't want an older 13 with .87 overdrive..
And a good used 13 or 18 speed with .73 = $$$$$ unless you get real lucky..
If your 15 is a good one you might find someone to trade with you, the 8ll replaced the 15 a while ago, and though they still aren't that hard to find, alot of people would rather have the 15.. They have been hard to beat in my experience, but I like a 13 for a road truck as well..
WTF
I am always impressed, even after seeing it happen every time somebody mentions the words "turn it up", the genuine concern that will surely follow for the health of another fellows engine..
Even if it is totally rediculous, it's just good to know that somebody cares..
3406b turn up
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by 92pete, Sep 9, 2009.
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If your gonna go with a 13/18spd don't get anything smaller than a RTLO16913A<<<make sure it has the letter A behind the numbers. If it has a B instead you will end up with a top gear of .84/.86, can't remember which one. The RTLO16913A has a top gear of .73.
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na, I want an 18 spd. Or even another 15 that isn't deep reduction. There's nothing wrong with the 15dr in there, but it sucks not being able to split the go-fast gears. Pretty sure it's an overdrive, at 75mph i'm tacking 1500 with 3.55grears. it's an RTX15715
About the motor, How do I know if it's a B or C???? Pump says C, Peterbilt says B. ESN is 3ZJ16273. If I shouldn't turn the screws, then how do you get more power out of it?? If it's a C what's the timing set at factory??? Should I advance it or not???
Sorry for all the questions, Just trying to get the skinny on what I got. -
Just by looking at the outside of the motor you can't tell a difference between a B or C. If you bumped the timing up alittle and it worked, leave it alone if your happy, or do like I end up doing..... Mess with it more and then go back to where I had it...LOL.
You most likely have a B pump or atleast one that you can turn up. If you turn the screws out, make sure you turn both the same amount of turns. Just don't over do it! Turn them out and run the truck a week to see how it is then if you want more go a cpl more turns.
Did we go over the AFRC valve? -
Well I turned it out 3 turns, Haven't ran it yet but I'll try it there. All I gathered from the dieselgarage(ynot's post) on the AFC is I turned the screw in all the way, just enough threads to put the nut on, and I checked the diaphram, and took it all apart to see how it worked.
It's basicly the same concept as a p-pump on a dodge which I'm real acuainted with. -
Good! I hope you didn't lose that little spring.
Wanted to add this..... It's gonna smoke!!! -
rrw811 Thanks this.
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Nope les, I did drop the #### thing in the dirt though. But I saw where it went before I droped it.
From what I gather, this engine was made right at the B and C changeover. It still has the mechanical pump but the only way to tell if it is a C is to look at the main bearings??? Correct or am I looney. -
Wider rod bearings!
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All I meant was they don't respond as well to a round on the screws, or don't seem to have as much rack travel as the older pumps, thats all..
I say turn it wide open, then let your foot be the governor..
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