Hi new to the forum and looking to get some guidance as all of the information I have searched for hasn’t given me enough information to troubleshoot my problem.
I have a 3406E (2WS16641) 475 that we just put into a ‘92 C500 Kenworth (569051) dump truck. The truck’s build book says it has an X3833 radiator and it came with a 330 91N14.
The problem is the water temp gets hot (215-220) so I have to back out of it a lot while the other trucks below do not. These aren’t extremely long pulls either. And only 4 over gear until it heats up then I’m in like 3rd direct just to keep it from getting any warmer but it doesn’t drop either after shifting down.
We also have an ‘06 t800 475 Acert and a ‘02 379 w/ 550 6NZ that do not get hot pulling the same loads.
Let me know what further information you need to help diagnose what I need do.
3406E Getting Hot
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by AMC500, Jul 2, 2023.
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Possible that the thermostat is not opening all the way, radiator fins may be clogged, or it's time for a new Radiator. Radiators generally last 5 to 7 years. I would start there.Jordonh, Rideandrepair, Snow Hater and 1 other person Thank this.
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Is there a way to test any of this before spending that much on a new radiator? I just don’t want to go replacing parts for no reason. The radiators in our other trucks have only been touched when the motors were rebuilt and they weren’t replaced. I’m not saying you are wrong by any means but I just don’t see how a radiator could need to be replaced every 5-7 years with the proper coolant maintenance. I was wondering if there was a cooling capacity requirement for the engine and to compare that to the radiator spec.
Rideandrepair and Big Road Skateboard Thank this. -
Shoot the inlet and outlet of the rad with a temperature gun when its hot. See what the temperature differential is
All the shrouds/flaps around the rad and fan are in place? Rad fins are straight and no debris plugging it up? No debris caught between the air to air, A/C condenser and rad? What concentration of coolant are you using?
Fan not installed backwards? Quick test, put the fan on manually, set the engine to 1200 RPM and see if a sheet of paper gets sucked onto the grill with some force. If the fan's backwards it usually won't get pulled very hard into the grill.Rideandrepair, RubyEagle and D.Tibbitt Thank this. -
Have you verified gauge is reading correctly?
Originally the truck had a 330hp now it has much more, can the radiator support the extra HP? Is it comparable size rad to your other trucks?Rideandrepair, OLDSKOOLERnWV, stwik and 1 other person Thank this. -
Does it go over 220? Had a 1lw 550hp fan didn't kick on until 215. 99 Ih 9300 crossflow radiator would easily get to 220 before it started to cool back down. Didn't like it but guys at local cat shop didn't seem concerned. Had 1.5mil when I sold it and hadn't given up yet. If it goes over 220 and keeps climbing then definitely clean/replace radiator. Not 100% sure this is correct information just what I learned form my experience with an emodel.
Rideandrepair, Diesel Dave and Oxbow Thank this. -
Most all C-15 and C15 fan kicks on at 217
Some of the earlier 3406 are a lower temp but I don't recall what. It's a parameter that can not be changed.Rideandrepair, stwik, Oxbow and 2 others Thank this. -
In 90* weather on Cabbage hill my 5DS goes to 217*f before the fan kicks on. Manual fan at the bottom of the hill and I don't see over 200* so long as I'm not trying to impress any fleet trucks. I've read/heard that various ECM files are designed to keep the Temps higher or lower based on emissions requirements at the time, low NOX files or some such junk.
Rideandrepair, Last Call and Oxbow Thank this. -
A boost leak will cause one to get hot in a hurry. Do you have a pyro?
Rideandrepair and Big Road Skateboard Thank this. -
Yes it has a pyro and never gets above 900.Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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