3406E wont start

The timing sensor in the picture is correct, the on on the right replaces the one on the left.

An Improved Speed-Timing Sensor is Now Available {1912}

SMCS - 1912
Engine:


3176 (S/N: 2YG1-UP; 5XN1-UP; 7LG1-UP)
3176B (S/N: 3LZ1-UP; 9CK1-UP)
3406E (S/N: 1LW1-UP; 4AS1-UP; 5DS1-UP; 5EK1-UP; 6TS1-UP)
C-10 (S/N: 2PN1-UP; 8YS1-UP; AKB1-UP)
C-12 (S/N: 1YN1-UP; 9NS1-UP; ALS1-UP)

Description of Change:
Table 1Required Parts Part Number Description Quantity 265-9034 Speed Sensor Group 1 265-9033 Speed Sensor Group 1 126-8481 Washers 2 An improved speed-timing sensor is now available for some on-highway truck engines. Adaptable To: The 265-9034 Speed Sensor Group replaces 102-9029 Speed Sensor Group. The 265-9033 Speed Sensor Group replaces 129-6628 Speed Sensor Group . Note: The serial number prefixes (S/N: 2YG1-UP; 5XN1-UP; 7LG1-UP) require the installation of two 126-8481 Washers with the 265-9034 Speed Sensor Group for the replacement of the 102-9029 Speed Sensor Group. The serial number prefixes (S/N: 5EK1-30869) require the installation of two 126-8481 Washers with the 265-9033 Speed Sensor Group for the replacement of the 129-6628 Speed Sensor Group.

 

The ECM can be faulty and flash no fault codes. If the injector drivers are damaged the ECM wont realise there is a problem, also if its not reading RPM the ECM doesnt log a fault because it doesn't know you're turning the engine over trying to start it.

 

once i turn my key off i can not get code with the cruise control, i have to get them while the code is still active.will only show code 55. the timing sensor shim depends on serial number, if you bought it by your engine number what they told you is likley right. It is also possible you lost prime, check make sure you didn't leave the old O-ring in the filter housing. if the hand pump works have someone start it while you pump it, pump it up tight first then try starting it while you keep pumping. or use a little starting fluid.

 

I really do feel for your situation and know it can be frustrating. There was another thread that someone was asking about the 3406E motor and I had commented that I would stay away from it because it is all controlled by the ECM and one little thing will shut her down. 5MouthstoFeed pretty much told me to shut up and that I didn't know what I was talking. Made the comment that all motors are controlled this way. I argued that the 3406B motor is not and that 3406E had tons of these little issues.
Don't see 5mouthstoFeed commenting on this one.
Again, I feel your frustation and and don't have the answer for you to get her running. All I know is that the 3406E motor is very touchy.

 

Not everyone can or wants to drive an pre 1990's truck. Therefore mechanical motors are a mute point. PS: Is KingHunter related to you?

 

Do you have to walk around using a mirror?
The 3406E has issues. PERIOD! It is way more sensitive to this type of failure. When you refused to even try to comprehend what I was trying to expalin I gave up. Yes all newer motors have more elctronics but there is just something about the E motor that makes "goofy". The reference to the B motor was to show that the 3406 is a great motor....just not with all of the modern electronics.

 

So what are you saying? That in today's age we should all be buying old, non-emission compliant mechanical engines? I understand what you are saying. Some guys just aren't happy with somethings. I hate mechanical engines and would work on something electronic anytime. We are all trying to help this guy out and your comments really aren't helping. The last time I saw a "B" engine it was in some old piece of junk scrapper that was wasn't worth a #### and shouldn't have been on the road in the first place. With emissions and technology today you pretty much have to go with a modern electronic engine. Not just the 3406E has issues, surprise, they all have issues. I haven't found a perfect engine yet!

 

Well said!!!!!

 

Well, I went from a truck with a 3406B to one with a 3406E a year and a half ago and am downright pleased with it. I am getting way better fuel mileage to the point that I save enough on fuel now to make the payment every month on the new truck. I have had a couple problems with it but I had some problems with the B model as well. I know from experience that that fuel injection pump on a B model is pretty expensive to work on.

If you understand how the electronics work in the E model, they are actually easier to diagnose than a mechanical engine. In the case being discussed here, I would have bet on the cam sensor but it is starting to look like ECM especially since there was some welding done on the truck. I am interested to find out what the problem turns out to be, just to kind of expand my knowledge.

We had do do some welding on my 5th wheel slider when I first bought the truck and the first thing the guy did was disconnect the batterys and unplug the ECM. Don't be scared of the E model, learn about it, its really a pretty good engine.