Hi all, I'm new to the forum and looking for some experienced input on some continuing brake issues on our Peterbilt.
Info on the truck: (I'm new to wrenching on big trucks so forgive me if I get some terminology wrong)
It's an '05 PB 379 (Wireline Truck), this truck was based up in Alberta, CA and when they shut our base down it managed to make it's way down here to Houston, TX. I'm in the process of getting my CDL to drive this truck as they've laid off all the licensed drivers, so they have given this truck to me and told me to get it going like it's supposed to and keep the maintenance up on it.
I've gotten mixed stories on this truck, guy's that have come down here for training from CA told me that they think this was one of the trucks in our fleet that got rolled down an embankment and ruined the cab and others are not sure. The wireline operators control room on the back was leaking water like a siv and I had to tear the whole inside out and replace it. The biggest issue among other various things are the brakes. About 2 years ago we had a mechanic come out to fix the brakes and apparently had no idea what he was doing because he got under the truck and jacked with the brakes, got in threw it it reverse and away he went (right over our fence). It cost that company several thousand (not including truck damage), the brakes work good when you put it to the floor, but that's really the only time they work. When I put the pedal down it sticks and have to reach down and pull it back up by hand, the also causes an issue with the brake sensor on the idle-up to run our PTO and will not let it go. I have to pump the pedal several times and then give it a good jerk up to get it of the sensor.
I talked to a family member who works on trucks and said to look at the foot valve, my question is where is the foot valve (obviously by the pedal), but what does it look like? I decided to join the forum because this is not the only issue and will probably need some more assistance in the future, but the brakes are #1 on this list. Any and all info that can be provided is GREATLY appreciated and I'm open minded so shoot me ideas and whatever other kind of info that can benefit me on the build.
Thanks, Bradley
379 Brake Problems
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by TurnRight379, Feb 14, 2017.
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Your brake pedel has a pin going thru it to attach it to the brake vave .
That pin gets corroded and causes the issues your describing.
Take pin out and wire wheel it then reassemble with lube.TurnRight379 Thanks this. -
While you have that pin off that swaan mentioned, there is a rubber boot with a plunger under it. That plunger sticks too. Vacuum it good, then pop the boot off and pull the plunger to clean it, lube it and reinstall. Make sure that the boot is good and put back in place. There's a groove on the plunger and the mounting plate for it. If it's not in the bottom, dirt will get in there again and do the same thing. Make sure that the pin that holds the pedal on is free and also make sure the the roller under the pedal spins free.
If that does not fix it, you'll probably need a new foot valve (which is right under that plunger). Having very little brakes until you push hard is a sign that the foot valve is bad. You may need to replace the foot valve. If you do need a foot valve, I suggest getting a new plunger and moutning plate (the plunger rides in the mounting plate). They used to sell a whole kit with valve, plunger, mounting plate and pedal assembly.SAR and TurnRight379 Thank this. -
So are you saying that I'd be better off just replacing it? I think that would be the best option to make sure that it's functioning properly, is it inside the cab under the pedal? This thing came out of the great white north and the whole chassis has a coating of rust on it so I'm guessing it got plugged up from road salt and harsh conditions. I forgot to mention that this truck sat untouched for 6 months and the tanks were full of moisture.
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Yes replace it.
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I can't tell you to just replace it, I'm not there. I'm just saying what they typically do when they're bad. I use pressure gauges on the primary and secondary side to verify. Pressure should come up smoothly on both as you're pressing the pedal down. If you get a lag, then the gauges jump, replace the valve. While it's not a bad idea to just change it, it's wasting money if that's not you problem.
The valve is mounted under the cab right under the pedal. If you take the peal off, there are 3 bolts on the inside holding the valve to the plate, but the valve comes off from the outside. You'll need to pull the shifter cover off the floor to get to the air lines. Take the air lines off first and take pictures, draw a diagram, mark the hoses, or what ever you need to do to get them back in the same places. Once you get the valve off, there are 5 (I think) bolts holding the mounting plate to the floor under the floor mat/carpet. It's not an easy job getting up in there, but not too bad. Lots of stuff that you have to work around, it's tight.TurnRight379 and SAR Thank this.
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