4MG Rebuild

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Oxbow, Feb 19, 2024.

  1. IH Truck Guy

    IH Truck Guy Road Train Member

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  3. ElmerFudpucker

    ElmerFudpucker Road Train Member

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    Dang. That sucks but we’ve all had to lick a calf twice.
     
  4. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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  5. Big Road Skateboard

    Big Road Skateboard Road Train Member

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    I figured it was.

    Hey, not sure where you ordered the seal installer, but most nowadays come from China.

    After the seal starts into the bore, pull the installer body back off and make sure it's started straight.

    I've come across a few that weren't square and pushed the seal in crooked. You can see it real well when the wear ring gets flush with the crank.
     
  6. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    Oh, I appreciate that. I did order a cheap one on line as I gather it will be a one time use. I'll do as you suggest and thanks for the tip.
     
  7. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    The tool I ordered and spent a bunch extra to get it here by yesterday.......MIGHT be delivered by Friday. No worries, ended up borrowing one from Holst Equipment. It is a Monaco - pretty well built.

    Anyway, most all that read this thread are much smarter than me and know how to do things properly. In the event that someone is reading this that is interested, here are a few photos:

    Rear end of crank:
    upload_2024-8-7_17-24-19.jpeg
    Note the dowel. This insures that the flywheel goes on correctly for pin timing.

    Inner seal guide.
    upload_2024-8-7_17-27-18.jpeg

    Push plate for rear seal that pushes both inner and outer seal segments at the same time, preventing damage to the seal and pushing the seal in to the correct position.

    upload_2024-8-7_17-30-4.jpeg

    Retarder and flywheel installed.
    upload_2024-8-7_17-35-49.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2024
  8. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    Closer look at easy pedal clutch adjuster. @mitmaks had some issues with one recently. Perhaps this will help others like me that don't really know WTF were doing! Lol
    upload_2024-8-7_17-39-8.jpeg Clutch installed.
    upload_2024-8-7_17-37-31.jpeg
     
  9. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    I think we're finally there!
    upload_2024-8-9_18-38-9.jpeg
    I know, I need to clean the inside of this cab that's been sitting since last fall, but everything works, oil pressure is good, and this engine is crisp!

    Even got away with getting the A/C working without changing parts! Pulled a vacuum and it held.

    upload_2024-8-9_18-41-23.jpeg

    So, I guess this will be about the end of this thread. Thanks to all who have followed along, and especially those who gave me advice! I really appreciate it.
     
  10. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    They say to break a new engine in by working it. I'm going to give her a pretty good first trip tomorrow. About 112,000 lbs.and going about 100 miles from 4500 ft. to 6500 ft. Should seat the rings I hope!
    20240812_174247.jpg
     
  11. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    The new engine and turbo performed very well. Pulled good and never saw more than 750 on the pyrometer, and the boost was about 33ish pounds at wot. Turbo is what @wore out recommended - 1.45 ar and 78mm non wastegate.

    I stopped at the closed scales on the way and got a free weight. About 13000 on the steers, 44000 on the drives and a little over 54000 on the trailer, so just a bit over 111,000. No long steep hills where I went, but a steady light pull for the most part of 100 miles.
     
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