599 hp 3406

Yes my truck was a 5YG originally. It and my 15 are hooked together in the back room of the shop. I had a 4MG prior to this one with a wide journal crank and small pins with 3412 two piece pistons in it. It was a hoss. I think the fella that owns it will be pleased he gets his project done. I’m running a 3ZJ block now.

When it came down to picking out turbos I had to learn to read a turbo map. It’s nothing you can’t learn yourself. The hardest lesson was timing and most want way too much of it. What may seem better isn’t always. The basic principles go way back in life. I tried most everything I read from guys that appeared to be really sharp. In the end I come back to the basic principles I learned in a little one bay tin shop on the side of US 67. Things can look the same to the naked eye but be incompatible. A 5EK piston will go in a C model but you’ll hate your life if you try it. Never quits smoking. The 8PN has a factory steel top offered matter of fact it’s only kit still offered from CAT. Everything else is individual parts. I see them in 3ZJ’s a lot guys are so proud of em. But without the nozzle to go with them it’s a headache. And even with the right nozzle you can’t get any more out of them with out heat and agony. I’m not an expert far from it. I know way more about what won’t work than will. That marine #### is just that ####. Really no such thing but that’s a discussion for another day. If you know where to look the build sheets are easy to find. Then you just pick a rotating assembly that fits your needs and truck parts you have. Nozzles have to match pistons and pump has to match nozzles.

 

So, your 5YG and 3ZJ have the same wide journals? Do they have different cams, rods and pistons? I guess what I’m asking are those two blocks originally close to the same and can you take your 5YG and build it to your current 3ZJ?

 

The 5YG used an updated 1 piece piston with small wrist pins. The 3ZJ all had the later bigger diameter wrist pin. So if you use rods from one to the other yes you can build them to each others specs. You can build any block to any spec as the cranks interchange. All the mains are the same. I used the 3ZJ block because it has a higher nickel content. But that’s where the 3ZJ stops. It’s running a C15 crank Had to change the gear. C15 oil cooler and thermostat housing. Cam from an original 5YG not a cam ordered for that serial number. Pump is from another road truck engine that they only made 1 year. I will say the orafices that allow fuel into the plunger and barrel is bigger inside diameter on a b over a c the outside is the same so I put those from a B in C pump. Set the torque group springs to an original 7FB JWAC 400 specs. Then set the FLS to 5.93mm and put the FTS at .030 on the spring. A set of pistons and nozzles from a genset with 6634 plungers and barrels in the pump. The block had deck inserts and was machined on top surface after as well as all 6 lower bores done and rechecked by a 2nd neutral to the situation machine shop for being plum in poor boys terms. I can’t spell the big word sorry. I don’t like the floating stainless shims they use when counter bores are cut and liner height is measured. I want a solid new surface. With deck inserts that what you get. The cowboy in me has always said no hoof no horse well that’s where I’m at. If the foundation ain’t 100 percent solid you’re never gonna get one to live. Being put together absolutely clean with wear items like bridges rocker arm shafts and rockers replaced matter. The intake push tubes can be a m’fer to put in. Many put them in then tighten the head bolts that hold the rocker shaft’s another no no. Build a tool to pull the rocker back and open the valve to get the push tube in. Use brush on Indian head dressing in the shim gasket only. I run ARP head studs because of a more uniform torque. Full tilt manifold with 100 percent CAT internals. Set my valves with a mag base and dial indicator. Timing is by the meter, with an aero motive electric pump feeding a regulator that feeds the factory transfer pump. Anything below 40 in a pull shows up quickly. With an SST-6 and a 1241C behind it spinning 3.55 rears on tall rubber yes sir she’ll do her part. With enough spare to do part of yours if she needs to.

Anywhere you wanna read on the net they say a B pump will out flow a C. Some claim that a B governor section will fix that. I am gonna set that straight as horse ####. I intended to take the trick to that to my grave but I did put it out earlier in this post.

A few have asked me what does Bilt to the Hilt entail. There you have it.

 

So basicaly you have a inner continental tug boat motor .. with some minor enhancements

 

Yeah, after reading through alot of Cummins CPL’s, listening to folks and researching what they say/claim, the word “marine” is just a cliche. “Marine” is a certain setup, not a particular component, that happens to be in a boat. I got a guy(KT3406) that’s about 5 miles from me who makes alot of YouTube videos about Cat engines. He uses the term “marine” alot.

 

Wouldn’t that be a “marine” engine? He basically said marine don’t mean ####.

 

Closer to a 25 Johnson with a manual choke

 

Am I wrong, that a 3ZJ can be a B or a mechanical C?

 

It’s a change over engine but people stress over whether it’s a B or C way too much. All 3ZJ had the 7E-5888 C model pump and wide rod crank journals. There is no line in the sand that all B’s were this and C’s that. Like the general public wants there to be. The B model 3ZJ used a small pin 15.2 piston. And 11 degree cam in pump. The C 3ZJ used a big pin 15.6 then a 16.4 piston with a 9.5 degree cam.

 

As far as block integrity, a B is as strong as a C, or the same? Does the higher nickel content play the biggest factor in eliminating liner protrusion?