6nz liner protrusion

I wouldn't reuse it for the simple fact that it will have irregularities in it as well. I wouldn't use the Cat Classic option either. In my opinion, it would be better spent money on the Cat original part #. First question again, did you check each individual cylinder deck height in an X pattern? If you are uniformly low by .001 0r .002 you can get a plate that is .003 thinner.

 

at that mileage your going to have wear in the block where the liners seat. if there is any where at all counter bore is the fix. don't just get the thinner plate. been that route before. it doesn't last. like I posted before and the other poster stated. measure at four points on liners after clamping down with bolts and washers and measure protrusion. im adamant about this. please don't go over .006 on protrusion. it will be to much clamping force on the liner flanges. don't use the copper spray. cat actually has a part# for the spray tack to use on the tin gasket. not the epoxy that is used on the outside of plate. I don't know what the number is but can post it tomorrow when I get to my shop.

 

If you use Cats thinner spacer plate, you will get .007" protrusion. Plate is .335 + tin gasket is .008" =.343". Liner flange is .350". I run them at .0065" to .007" all of the time, with out failures.
Cat now recommends coating the bottom of the tin plate with Aviation Permatex.

 

We had a kit with a spacer plate gasket with the sealant removed, Be sure you draw file the block, and spacer plate before assembly and you need to have a full set of bolts, if you just do the 6 around the liner, you can bend the plate. We had a kit with bolts and aluminum spacer tubes. also the head gasket itself, support it in the end cylinder and run the side of you finger around the compression seal, If it hooks the compression seal is cracked I found a few like that.

Just a thought!

 

I'm going to say it one more time, if you get your block deck height right to begin with, you won't be dragging liners in and out of your block, spinning liners in the bore and rechecking etc. If you're getting piston packs, now that's going to be a lot of fun unless you disassemble them, and if you're going that route, why get the packed assemblies to begin with. You're not cinching down the parts with soft washers and low torque the way they're going to get cinched by 330 to 350 ft.lbs of 300+ lbs of flat machined steel, you'll get in the ballpark by a .001-.002. The tooling to check deck height is faster and easier to use than the plate bolt down method and you know where you're at from the start. I'll shut up now.