I would not buy that old of a truck in those conditions, but that is me, I have dump trucks and I put 400 to 600 miles a day, I wish other people will chime in on this, I don't know the conditions of the motor, I'm just judging by a picture and could be wrong, but I hate for you to buy a truck and in a month having to rebuild a motor that is not worth it, like it happened to me, when I least could afford it and that sound like your case, other wise you'll be buying something with a newer engine,I mean even a old Cummins will be better choice than the Detroit, but sound like you getting this truck for almost nothing.
if you can get the truck to a mechanic and point my worries to em, is the best advice I can give you.
8v92
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by truckingman, Oct 24, 2010.
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Their is a shop nearby that is going to do the DOT inspection I can have him look at radiator also & see what he thinks.
I am getting the truck for $3000 but I dont have money to do a rebuild or a buy another motor. So if the motor is going to blow up I rather not buy it
Also here are the pics of the truckAttached Files:
Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2010
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some more pics
Attached Files:
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Truckingman, looking at those pictures it seemed that this truck is not double framed, also the suspension is not heavy duty enough and it makes me wonder if the front axle is rated at 12k lbs and if the brake system has been upgraded which I doubt, can you say here what are you planning to do with the truck, how many miles are you going to put on it weekly, how heavy of loads and what are you going to be hauling with it?
I'll see if you post back soon I might have a few more questions to guide you on the right direction.
in other words this truck is very light duty for a dump truck. -
I also notice holes on the frame top side which is not only illegal but and a disaster waiting to happen.
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If it is just rusty, first off check the antifreeze strength, and if it has a coolant filter, If it has straight water, that is a very bad thing the corrosion in the bottom area of the liner "O" groves, can destroy the block.
To flush it, use Arm and Hammer washing soda, and mix in a bucket,with a paint type mixer, and hot water, then pore off the liquid, fill with every oz it will take. If there is any, oily residue, add a bit of Dawn dishwasher soap. You want to do the flushes multiple times before you buy it as the rust could be plugging a coolant leak.
Remove the oil filler cap if it shows a whitish foam then there is coolant in the crankcase.
I recomend the 40 Weight oil unless it is freezing out, then the 30.
These engines are oil cooled to a greater extent than any other engine. Check the oil daily, I would recomend a water filter.
If you run the engine low on oil it will score the liners.
yes the leak oil and they use more fuel than any other, drive it between 1200 and 1650 and it will live a long time, rev it and drive it irresponsibly it will not last and will burn more fuel than necessary. I would recomend doing a bearing roll in every 150,000 miles, and new oil preasure regulators at the same time.
Just a thought!truckingman Thanks this. -
Just a thought! -
I am planning to use it to haul firewood rounds & split firewood maybe 4 cords 4x4x8
also I will be only be using the truck a few times a week
My round trip would be about 70 miles sometimes 160 miles
if those are holes on the top of the frame rails how do you legally fix them?Last edited by a moderator: Oct 25, 2010
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There are also supposed to be bolts in the holes where the 5th wheel was, and you are missing both cap rails over the frame. You can see where they were cut off at the hoist. I agree on the holes in the flanges. The truck will do what you are wanting to do, but it would not pass a DOT check the way it is right now.
Also check the cab. Those style Western Star cabs rust out around the roof clearance lights and the visor brackets. The price is too cheap if everything is good. The engine, trans, and bed should be worth more than that.
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