Yes nothing was coming out of either line when I had it disconnected as the air built up it started coming out of the little line. Still nothing out of dryer purge valve. Once I pushed that little line back on with air coming from it the dryer purged properly air psi stayed at a good level. So still a bad dryer/purge? Or run with it and see what happens
99 freightliner problems
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by City-Boy, Feb 18, 2025.
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Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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Was it mine, it would still get replaced, because it sounds like the governor is working correctlyOxbow, Rideandrepair and City-Boy Thank this. -
Oxbow, hope not dumb twucker and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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Get some galvanized or black pipe from any hardware store. Make a coupling that will allow you to bypass the air dryer in the future if needed. A few bottles of rubbing alcohol. Cheap emergency kit. Also replace governor, new, not rebuilt. Keep the old one for emergency. Might come in handy someday. You might want to add some alcohol into the SS line off the compressor, drain the tanks a few times before replacing the dryer. That’s what I did anyways. Tried to clean everything up. You can get fancy and use air dryer conditioner if you’re worried about alcohol drying out seals. I’ve never had a problem.
Last edited: Feb 22, 2025
City-Boy and Big Road Skateboard Thank this. -
This is entirely off the subject but oddly around the same time I started this project maybe related but I'm doubtful.
Last week I parked for the night in mid Indiana it was bitterly cold so I idled from there to south bend my truck sputtered and/or popped while accelerating high and low side and smoking like crazy. When I got to my unload I shut it off to check for codes nothing new just old coolant and boost sensor (replaced beginning of January) then truck wouldn't start hitting the engine start button it clicked once! Checked for power Checked batteries nothing out of sorts. I jumped the starter protection plug and it fired up. Went to portage to load ran like crap the whole way but truck started just fine then on to a mechanic I know who ran for codes but nothing new he suggested some 911 as it's single digits out. Ran my coil down to north Alabama ran like crap the whole way same issues. I idled again that night again cold as hell. It idled like normal but hard a few times waking me up then smoothed out no odd idling or rhythm I've had bad injectors before. It ran hard again at 630 am woke me then slowly chugged to a stop!! Turned the key then it restarted without an issue and ran perfectly all the way to south Bama. That when I did this job compressor and governor obviously I still need to change my dryer but I left Thursday ran to Birmingham then talladega unload then to Tuscaloosa reload then to mid Kentucky and it ran perfectly. Idled because it was again cold as hell then it did the same thing!! Ran like crap sputtered or popping smoking I stopped it wouldn't start jumped the protection plug again ran to Huntington WV running like crap the whole way shut it off to unload it started fine then down the street to load and its been running fine to Memphis!! I know there's about 100 different things it could be but #### why would this just come and then go? I'm due for a service in about 2,000 miles probably need new air filters and just for FYI engine was rebuilt in March of 2024 new heads new Bosch injectors. Overheads were checked 15,000 miles after with first oil change. Besides the boost sensor issue that I spoke of which made it run similar but not smoke it's ran absolutely perfect!! And I also bought another boost sensor in portage after mechanic looked at it just incase I got a bad one replaced it at home before heading out Thursday. It was a little loose and I tightened it but still ran like crap the whole day. So I'm just wondering if anyone has had this problem or any ideas what this may be?!?! When it's not doing that it's just fine! Both happened after idling in very cold weather and always ran just fine afterwards. I've used diesel treatment both times.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
White smoke?? If so, may be sucking air. Check fuel line connections. Especially the fuel pump connection, since it was disturbed when you changed the compressor. What’s this protection plug?? You can check the ECM ground (small wires going from negative battery terminal to frame) wouldn’t hurt to take them off, clean wires and frame, reinstall, if you’ve never done it. When the ground goes bad, you’ll know, because you won’t get any lights on the dash (check engine, etc.) with key in on position. Truck also won’t start. I’ve also heard of the srs and trs sensor plugs getting oil soaked and causing problems. None of those things will throw codes. That’s my best guess.
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There’s an ignition relay module (I think that’s what they call it) located on the outside firewall, just above the steering column. The wires often get brittle and break. Usually the one going to the starter button. It’s a common issue. Sometimes the module itself goes bad. If that’s the problem, you can jump it from there when needed. They’re not expensive, usually just need to put new eyelets on the wires. Heavy duty, shrink style eyelets, with liquid tape, and shrink tube over everything. Never have a problem again. The srs and trs are located on the backside of the inner front cover. In front of the compressor. When one goes out, it won’t start, and no codes. Another common problem. They always replace both of them. I’ve heard stories of the plugs getting full of dirt and causing problems. When mine went bad, the Truck started, moved about 10 feet and died. You mentioned the air temp or barometric pressure sensor sensor. I wondered about that myself. Mine has been getting spells of white smoke also. I kept forgetting to change mine. I also wonder about my fuel temp sensor. Mine are all original. Planned on changing them, especially because my fuel mileage is also pretty lousy. I really don’t know much about how they affect performance. I’m good at changing cheap parts. Lol
Last edited: Feb 24, 2025
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