A thread that will never die

10-4.

 

Get an ohm meter and follow the path to ground. Door hinge to cab usually.

1476540202611_zps9kkgfdxe by rabbiporkchop posted Mar 10, 2018 at 5:15 AM

 

I actually already have a volt meter (from a community college project way back in the day). I appreciate the picture, rabbi, but I'm not electrically inclined, so I don't understand what you're trying to show me.

Maybe if you could take a picture of your own strap?

 

I ran my ground from the passenger side inside kickpanel, removing the paint at the connection points to the frame of the door. Seemed to have worked fairly well. Also (boredom in Deming NM on a 10 hour break, glad to be back local ) built a raised feed point for the Francis to get it up over the windshield post.

 

Man ya gotta do some.reading...
Ground straps connect two pieces of metal together..In this case its done at the door..I know i posted this and other have as well..Its like your not even freakin tryin....
Ok..last time..
Open your drivers door...look at the door hinges....
Take out 1 bolt..clean the threads and threads where bolt goes..Connect 1 side of strap to door side of hinge..Now do the same on cab side...do noth hinges...Now go look up the term of bonding on k0bg.com

 

I don't have an antenna setup on a Freightliner Cascadia but I know someone that does but I don't have a picture of his strap but I do know the top bolt of the hinge on the door was removed and the bolt that holds the cowl to the cab directly across from the hinge on the door was also removed and a 6 inch braided ground strap made the connection from the door to the cab. The hinge is not a good ground because it's lubricated and it moves.
As the vehicle vibrates your ground potential will fluctuate unless you have a braided ground strap to connect the door to the cab of the truck.

 

Thank you, rabbi. I appreciate the detailed response.

Craig, I appreciate your response as well, but less so the frustration. I really am trying despite what you may think, but I also don't have a whole bunch of time to devote to scouring the web and this forum for that small tidbit that I actually need to know. It would be easier and faster to ask the people who know (you, rabbi, and others) directly. I hope you understand.

 

I slip seated every week so my setup was designed for that, and why I never bothered with a co-phased set up, or doing something other than what you saw in the pictures. One think about it. That antenna rode pretty straight up because of that Lexan. Others on here have found a better way to keep the SkipShooter from wagging around so bad. I didn't care how it looked, it was on a ugly ol' Walmart truck. I just wanted it to work. I ran a dual final Connex 3300HD and a Astatic mic body with RoadKing guts. It talked pretty good. I could get over the trash in West Memphis! And when I keyed up and talked, people answered. Got a lot of compliments on that set up. I could talk to the Channel Five lady way over in Memphis during the day time if the boys with the big amps didn't have the channel locked down. I ran duals on the 88 Pete I drove before I went to Walmart. Factory coax with Francis antennas and Cobra 25. That setup did well too. Only thing I ever did to it was change out the factory antennas to Francis antennas. That helped!

 

That is true! I told several about that at Walmart that wanted to run a amp and needed a better RF ground....worked every time.

 

Tried them. The load is too close to the truck body. If you get the can (load) up over the top of the cab, they work pretty good. I tried it and proved it to myself. I made a 4ft shaft to get it up higher and re-tuned the whip. It was just easier to go with the top loaded SkipShooter. Longer is better and the SkipShooter I used was 7ft......tip was about 13 feet.....and the load is in the tip.