2006 Freightliner Century. I can’t get the AC to work right, it will only work when it’s not hot outside.
What I’ve done so far is bypass the binary switch and the little thermostat at the evaporator. In my mind bypassing the binary switch eliminates a Freon pressure problem. Also by bypassing the evap thermo I think its not icing problem, though some ice will accumulate on the evap and the line on it.
AC will work after the truck has been shut off for some time, then it will work for a minute or two then shuts off the ac clutch. It cuts off the power at the wires leading up to the binary switch. If I jump a hot wire from the alternator to those wires that go to the binary switch the AC clutch will work and it blows cold.
I can’t find a wiring scheme anywhere. Something is interrupting the power to the AC clutch for whatever reason. Are there anymore preassure switches or thermostats or any other electrical doohickey that controls the AC?
Of course I checked the HVAC relay and the fuses.
What really has me baffled is that it will work when it’s not hot outside
AC problem help please
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by razor1983, Apr 26, 2018.
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There is usually one high side and one low side switch in the A/C system. Also some have a switch to turn on the radiator fan. The switch on the evaporator keeps the unit from freezing. It seems that you already know this. I would check for low gas, low air flow across the evaporator. But I would look at low gas and your pressure switches. Icing on evaporator could be caused by low gas or low air flow.
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The fan does come on like it should when the AC is working, there is only one pressure switch that I can find, its binary which measures both low and high, sits on the ac dryer bottle.
I dont think its a pressure issue because I bypassed the switch with a paper clip, and the wires that lead up to the switch have power while the AC is working but then it shuts off the power somewhere before that.
I will get a set of gauges today and check both lines. Ive checked the cold/fill side with one of those gauges that come on a freon can, it reads full. -
I had an expensive education on one of these once. There is a relay in the breaker panel for the compressor. Check and see if it looses control power to that relay when the clutch cuts out. I do not remember if the pressure switch is before or after if but you can chase it down.
The three switch control is a bit more than three switches. If gets signals back from the other switches and the blower motor. If it does not like what it is told it disconnects control power to the relay. The problem with mine was the blower motor but it blew just fine. I have the fuse- breaker panel that cost $650. Only used one time and I will make you a deal. Check it out and fix what is wrong.
Hope that helped and maybe someone else can.Oxbow Thanks this. -
Check the last thing that comes to mind, in this case its your ambient air temp sensor. Ive had them go bad and shut the a/c clutch off just like you describe, only when hot outside.
Oxbow Thanks this. -
The A/C relay is the component that uses thes signal from the pressure switches to engage or disengage the compressor clutch, if your pressures are in spec and your pressure switches are not breaking the signal then your A/C relay is the likely culprit.
You can bypass the system and get the A/C compressor to engage by simply removing the relay and pushing a paperclip into the right terminals, that is easier for testing than running jump wires. -
I know nothing about Freightliner a/c systems, but if the relay is the standard small box-like plug in relay it might be worth swapping it out to eliminate that possibility.
spsauerland Thanks this. -
I couldn’t find the problem so I threw parts at it. Changed the condenser, dryer, expansion valves and the switch. Seems to be working fine now but it’s cooled down where I am, true test will be when I get to 100F+ weather.
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