Adding powered sub to company cascadia

Scribble · Jan 1, 2021

Shaggy76 said: ↑

You can, but those batteries are usually deep cycle batteries so it will kill them out running amps off of them.

It's not really difficult to run amp cables at all. Just run off the power to the middle of the cab with a 6 inch lead, then wire tie to frame. This way as the cab is rocking and rolling around from I-40 in AR, you won't pull anything out. Then run the ground to the frame. The batteries will keep up and the alternator should as well. The alternator will protect itself and go to trickle mode if the amp pulls too much, but it won't be an issue if you stay under a 650 watt amp. If you go 1000, then put a capacitor in. Mount the amp behind the driver seat to the cabinet, then run the speaker wires over to it. I'm presuming you will change the deck out so you can run the amp signal cable to the passenger side, down to the floor mat, then remove the foot strip at the door and there is plenty of room in the valley to run the cable to the amp. Then run the speaker wires behind the cabinet or under (there is room under them) and into the storage under the bunk. I'm presuming that is where you wanted to mount. Unless you are doing shallow in boxes and putting them behind the seats, then you can go under the mat for the speaker wires.

It's not difficult. Just takes some time is all. About 3 to 4 hours and the first 2 hours of it is just running the wires for the deck and the amp. The rest is deciding where you want to place it all.

You can run a 12 in sub through a hole under the bunk. Just put a grille on the front to keep from kicking it. Freightliner did show off some trucks that had 2 of them that you could order. Well, it was show trucks anyway and we know they love to glorify the trucks at their shows, but never have those features on road trucks.
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Thanks for the detailed response, definitely helpful. How would it be hooked up to the main batteries, does it matter? There's 4, Should I just pick one??

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