Any tips on installing a back window on the sleeper?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by flc120, Aug 6, 2012.

  1. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

    916
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    Jul 11, 2012
    Miami,FL (yeah i know :( )
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    ok well i have come up with several ideas after looking at the stock install of these windows on petes as well as looking at certain RV motorhomes with similar windows installed.

    i am thinking of ditching the stiffner which i have which is some what bent out of shape and ditching the rubber seal which hold window in place.

    now i know i am going to get shot down here but i was thinking of installing window by itself just by usingthe window edge to install, the window edge is about 1"/1.25" thick all around the window its about 1/4" thick and pretty sturdy, i was going to drill a number of holes around this edge to mount window to back wall of sleeper with #10 type bolts and nuts about 10 of them all around the area of window. this way mounting window by the inside of sleeper. I paln on using some 3m double sided tape to seal it to back wall all around the metal edge of window bolting to back wall with screws and then using a quick set silicone all around the edge of inside window to prevent leaks.

    i am deciding on going this way to do to not having to worry about window popping out cuz it wasnt secure and not having an easy entry way to my truck as the factory design is rather unsafe in this aspect as you can simply pull locking rubber thread from around window and just simply push in window to get into sleeper (definetly not what i want)

    so i figured by securing the whole entire window to the wall minus stiffner and stock gasket i will have better security, window wont blow out. plus from the outside window will llook alot more flush with back wall of sleeper.

    some people may say that the rubber seal is there to keep window from cracking due to the bumps and so on, that is where i did some RV hunting to see how windows were secured and saw that windows were installed right into wall similar to how i will be doing it with no rubber in between wall and window whatsoever. Thus leading me to install window with out all the other parts.i was thinking of tieing the center stringer brace that i must cut into to install window tieing it into the actual lip of the window as well to keep back wall from looking like its flexing.


    lwhat do you guys think, i will be posting pics soon so you can understand what i mean.
     
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  3. W900KW

    W900KW Light Load Member

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    14
    Jan 18, 2010
    south dakota
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    if you installed it with the rubber it would be just like you windshield in a fld, it is rubber with lock strip, nothing to secure about that either.
     
  4. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

    916
    122
    Jul 11, 2012
    Miami,FL (yeah i know :( )
    0
    heres some pics i had to buy a newer tighter rubber seal for window to sit right as the old one was for thicker surfaces. i cut thru with a electric hand jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. cut right thru like butter and support brace to, i installed dry now silicone window is on real tight.i had to spend $40 extra on seal but it was worth it.

    [​IMG]


    i cut interior panel by measuring from inside and using old piece of wall cutout to make perfect cut with a box cutter, i will be using a rubber moulding to fit over the edge of the cut i made. looks great and all i have left to do now is 5% tint it to not worry about the sun or having to put up a curtain. later i wil make a button type cover if anything i am very happy i figured the structual integrety of the back wall wouldnt hold and i was wrong as its was very tight still i even sat on the roof to test i wiegh in at 240lbs no flex,bend or wobble.my older freightshakers sleeper is built pretty sturdy tho i can tell you that.

    finished product
     
    Getstepn Thanks this.
  5. flc120

    flc120 Heavy Load Member

    916
    122
    Jul 11, 2012
    Miami,FL (yeah i know :( )
    0
    [​IMG]


    now i can repaint my back wall and figure a new idea for my air hoses and such my next idea is to buy a diamond plate battery box that insets into the chassis frame rails and then i want to make a deckplate catwalk out of diamond plate as well to finish the top part of the rear chassis. the i will have air hoses come out of one of those stainless coffin boxes.

    also if anyone has a lead or knows of anyone who might have a scrap freightliner sleeper or cab with the side door i am looking for the whole complete rivited section so that i can add a door to the driver side of my sleeper exactly the same one that i have on my pass side but it has to be a freightliner sleeper door it cant be any other brand as it is different.

    please give me a heads up.
     
    Heavyd and Getstepn Thank this.
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