Blinker on passenger side not working

my buddy also had a problem like that but on a volvo, changed the switch and it started to work. If you dont find anything else out I would just change the switch it doesnt cost much.

 

Link to Freightliner Manuals

https://secure.freightliner.com/new...ernetdocs/DMMM_manuals.asp?brand=Freightliner#

 

Forget that the trailer turn signals work for a minute. Are you absolutely sure that neither of the turn signal bulbs are bad? I saw that you swapped the one on the side of the sleeper, but did you swap the ones on the back? Turn signals do stuff I'm not going to pretend I totally comprehend, especially if there are LEDs anywhere in the circuit. On my truck, if one of the stop/tail/turn lights on the tractor goes bad, the turn signals on the trailer will still work, but not on the tractor. If you are positive that all of the bulbs in your circuit are good, then all that's left is chasing down shorts.

 

Have you verified that the ground wire to the offending lights is grounded to the chassis with your voltmeter?

 

They have online manuals on the Freightliner website. If the front right signal and the indicator on the dash works, it's safe to say everything works to the flasher unit. If I remember correctly, there is a junction panel right beside the circuit board/relay panel on a FLD. Look in the center under the dash, there should be a panel cover with 3 big chrome plated screws on it. Remove them and the panel and you should see what I'm talking about. I forget the exact one, but I remember it was close to the middle was the turn signal relay. You can hear the clicking with it on.

Test for a flashing 12 volts on the junction block next to the relays. One wire should run to the front and one to the rear and side of the truck. You can trace backwards from there.

If the truck ever had chicken lights they could of cut the wire under the chassis or a wire broke at a connector. When tracing something like that, sometimes you have to take the sharp edge of your probe and penetrate the wire insulation back from the connector or plug to make sure the crimp connection is still good. An FLD has done alot of vibrating and salt corrosion over the years. I've seen light sockets that wore and corroded to where you think you don't have power. But when you back probe the wire an inch back or so, power is there.