I have an Iveco stralis, 2016, with a cursor 13 series 2 engine.
Truck overheated just before Xmas due to a broken fanbelt, didnt over heat much just while the driver tried to find a safe place to pull over.
Fast forward to second week of Feb and it's now losing about 3 litres of coolant per 1000km.
I have had the shop check it out, can't find an external leak anywhere, no sign of the compressor being the problem.
I don't really trust the shop guys, but they are thinking a head gasket on the exhaust side causing the coolant to Burn off.
No sign of coolant in the oil, although am waiting on an oil sample to come back to 100% confirm.
Truck is running great, no loss of power, no extra burning of oil.
Truck has been a POS, it only has 750,000km on it, I bought it new. Had nothing but problems with it, but nothing actually to do with the engine, up until now the engine has been the only good thing about the truck.
I am not keen at all in dropping $20k into it for a rebuild, if I did rebuild it, it would be to sell it straight away, I feel bad about selling it the way it is.
If there is no water in the oil or oil in the water can I keep running it?
I am now just topping up with water (not coolant) is this ok?
If I decided to do a quick solution like a gasket sealer into the radiator fill bottle what the best one and best way to do it?
Any advice? If the truck had been trouble free until now I would rebuild it, but the truck has been in the shop more than it should and I do believe it will still have more issues after a rebuild (non engine related)
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Is this OK? You will be the first to know.
Lots of evils with straight water in the cooling system. Corrosion, cavitation erosion ( holes in liners and such) and it is not just anti freeze. It increases the boiling point. As soon as the coolant boils it is steam which does not circulate in a liquid system and cools nothing.
Only good thing in your case is if it is getting in the oil in small amounts it would turn into steam and go out the blow by tube. Antifreeze would tend to collect and take out the bearings.
Oil sample will be good.
About the only thing I have seen work some times was sodium silicate. You can possibly get it at the drug store. Lots of block sealer products have it in them. It is the clear stuff floating on top of all that stop leak stuff in the bottom. Use the clear stuff and throw most the rest out. Use it with no antifreeze when the truck will run a couple hours and then be parked a couple days. Drain the block and radiator when it is parked. Refill just before going back to work.
Be sure it is not leaking out the air dryer. Hard to do when you only have water in it.black_dog106 Thanks this.
Oil sample came back, colant in the oil, was advised to stop running it, oil test took 2 weeks to come back, so it would be alot worse since I did 7000 miles and burnt 7 gallons of coolant during the time I waited for the results
Engine is supposedly still under warranty, until they find away of saying its not covered, dealer has been advised to do pressure test etc, so just waiting on what they can find out.
Top end has coolant in it, but looks undamaged, turbo pressure tested ok, when i last spoke to them they were pulling the pan and then doing pressure test
I would have antsy pants right now like a little girl waiting to get in the rest room soon enough.
Oh: You did not maintain the cooling system and cavitation erosion ate up the liners. Who and how was it maintained? What are the recommendations?
A company I worked with tested the coolant every service with test strips. The results were written on the PM sheet the strip stapled to it. They were not going to get screwed twice.
Saw a dealer claim that failure do to an independent shop doing poor maintenance. Truck only had 40,000 miles on it.
Hope you have better results. Just sharing and hope that gives you a little time to study and try to have a good educated response.
Probably ends up like this: Dud your screwed. Lack of maintenance and no warranty.
A rolled liner o ring can also cause a later in life cracked liner.
Let's see how it goes, considering they have agreed to tear it down and diagnose after they have received the oil sample back, after they have pulled the computer file from the truck and after they have seen the service history i think it's a good sign.
Also the truck was always serviced at the dealer, which hopefully leaves me in a good position.
So, they have taken the head off and sent it away to be tested, no word that it isn't under warranty and I ain't paying for any of this anyways even if they ask.
I am not sure if they will replace the head under warranty or a whole new engine?
If they do find the head is cracked and they replace the head, should I get them to do anything whilst the head is off?
I don't have much experience in this sort of stuff, is there anything I should look out for? Anything I should definitely do whilst the head is off?
Also do they need to test the block? Do they warp and crack etc?
I drove a Stralis myself and a few Euro Stars with the cursor engine in it.
If I had to write down the stories, it would be a book like the bible.
BUT, the block itself had always a good reputation on the Ivecos. All the other stuff around it was junk.
And I did have a couple of serpentine belt failures too. It always came off one rib, got cut to shreds and took out the wiring on the electric controlled fan clutch. This even once caused a short and fried the ABS module.
Turbos failed around the 200.000 km marks on the 480 hp versions.
All that was on early 2000's model years.
I would run and not get anywhere close to an Iveco anymore. No matter the price.
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