Hey all,
we have 2 trucks (w900) that both have decided to have a coolant party in the oil, but we’re at a loss. Truck 1 has had numerous heads on it several of which cracked. We thought we had it working good without problems, but a bolt on the compressor came out and it lost all oil pressure. After that, we put a new motor in and we’re having the same issue with cracking heads and coolant getting in the oil (to the tune of a gallon a day over 10 hours) does that seem possible with a cracked head? The latest we did the test to see if combustion gasses are entering the cooling system and it’s showing they aren’t… any tricks/things we should look out for? Truck 2, we haven’t opened up ever but it now has coolant in the oil and shows combustion gasses in the coolant, I believe this points to a cracked head/head gasket. Both trucks have the single turbo and both were puking coolant out the overflow. Truck 1 was straight coolant, truck 2 appears to have been coolant and oil and both were turned up a little bit. Picture 1 is the plug on the valve cover, the slime is just on the fill tube, not on the valve train as I can see
Cat C15 constantly putting coolant in Oil
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by brettwdmn, Oct 22, 2026 at 9:35 AM.
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Water pump or cavitation has gotten to the liners.
Drop the pan and pressure test overnight.
Dry cardboard under it and trace the drip.
Oil cooler also possible.BoxCarKidd, Stay Puft and fromAtoZ Thank this. -
I’m leaning to cavitation in the liners or water pump on truck 1 given there isn’t any oil in the water. Oil cooler should be putting oil in the water too I would imagine? That’s what has me stumped, why it’s over pressuring the cooling system yet not putting oil in the cooling system. How are you doing the pressure test?
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I would agree.
Leave the coolant full and just put a pressure tester on the surge tank. Hand pump or air pressure up to 15-16 lbs.
Usually only one will be leaking but they are all are pretty bad at that point. -
Man, what a nightmare. I hate it for ya.
Which serial # are the engines? First 3.
The 3406E and C15 around 99-2000 as far as I'm aware had problems with heads cracking. The 1LW serial # series had crankshaft breakage too, slightly bent cranks vibrating at about 72-75 mph on mine. But that's another issue.
The heads were not remanufactured on Cat reman engines; they put on new heads, because the head casting has a known metallurgical weakness at the bridge between the intake valves.
What starts the undoing is usually overheating. Low coolant, a restricted or plugged radiator, a stuck thermostat, or a failing water pump create hot spots that push the head past its design limits.
Maybe your engines were rebuilt and the liner protrusion was set wrong or improperly seated liners.
Low pressure in the cooling system from a bad radiator cap lower boiling point and inadequate SCAs in old coolant cause cavitation to occur sooner.
I guess overall it looks like improper engine building or improper maintenance. -
Just wondering if the liners are pitted, what kind of coolant or additive was used to/or not to prevent it if applicable.
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I had a BXS some years ago. Put an oil cooler on it because it was mixing both ways and flushed it real good. Came back a couple months still mixing. All liners were pitted bad. 2 leaking thru. Odometer showed 700k- ECM had 28k hours
Ultimately cavitation occurs from neglected permanent antifreeze(green). Course adding well water when mixing Proly doesn’t help. I think a lot of folks change out the crappy coolant and jut put in ELC but a lot of times the damage can already be done.Diesel Dave and fromAtoZ Thank this. -
Makes complete sense I know a couple got new sleeves when it was done, but I can’t for the life of me remember what they looked like and I’m sure with the last head it didn’t get checked properly, I personally am not a fan of that mechanics work. It just blows my mind that both motors would have that problem, but completely possiblefromAtoZ Thanks this.
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The green coolant isn’t what you’d reccomend? Is it just harder on the parts? I know these two have it in them, our 3rd c15 hasn’t had a problem other than a bad injector and runs the same coolant and way more miles a year.
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Permanent green antifreeze is fine, but more work to maintain. Always use premix or mix with distilled water. Monitor green with 3-way strips to keep in balance. Add conditioners accordingly. Every PM. And yes I mean every PM.
Really hard to beat the ELC technology. Dump it and go. Just monitor freeze protection and make sure it doesn’t get diluted.fromAtoZ and Diesel Dave Thank this.
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