Cat turbo stud kit

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by w9l, May 29, 2020.

  1. w9l

    w9l Light Load Member

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    Cat turbo mounting stud kit? ARP maybe? 6nz manifold one yr old . New from cat. Keeps breaking or loosing random mounting bolts and then spits out corner of gasket. 3 times in past 30k miles. Cat hardware every time. What is going on here? About 850 egg is max. Can I convert to ARP studs? I thought down pipe was in a bind and changed elbow out to correct style and replaced flex. No binding now... still breaking or losing bolts
     
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  3. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Are the studs falling out of the head/turbo? Were the stud spacers cleaned or replaced?

    Cat uses stover nuts and their hardware is top quality. Never seen a stover nut loosen once installed and torqued.
     
  4. Shawn2130

    Shawn2130 Medium Load Member

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    On our Cats we use stainless regular nuts on stainless studs.

    There have been a few times the nuts came loose but I’ve learned to go back and make sure they’re staying tight as the bolts stretch with heat cycling.

    Since then they’ve now stayed in place.
     
    A5¢ Thanks this.
  5. W900AOwner

    W900AOwner Heavy Load Member

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    Have you ever had the manifold planed after a stud failure? Sound like it's warped and causing the problem. I bought a brand new aftermarket manifold from HHP in Coleman, Mi. (where I buy ALL my aftermarket Cat parts from now because they're a pleasure to deal with,) and solved that problem 2 years ago. Plus the new one doesn't leak between the sections, and it was $330.00 shipped to my door, not $900.00 from Cat. I use Interstate McBee stud kits too, have had really good luck with them. Bottom them out, then back them out a c hair...with a new or planed manifold surface, you should be good to go!

    Diesel Engine Parts & Rebuild Kits | Highway and Heavy Parts®
     
    Shawn2130, A5¢ and w9l Thank this.
  6. w9l

    w9l Light Load Member

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    Ok. Thanks. I bought an aftermarket E model manifold and port matched and installed on my C model mechanical for about the same money as yours and have never had a minutes trouble with it. No leaky joints or anything. Had this one put on at shop, genuine Cat, over a grand. Expansion joints have leaked since day 1. Took it back to shop and they put some kinda Cat authorized seals and hose clamps at joints. 1st time still leaked. 2nd time stopped it for now. They charged me both times. DONE!!! As for studs, I would have to tap the manifold or put inserts in it as it just has 4 holes that clear the 3/8Cat bolts to stick through manifold cnd turbo and put nuts on.

    Haven't planned it. If I take it off expansion joints will leak again so , if I can't flatten it with hand files and prussian blue it will be gone.
     
    A5¢ Thanks this.
  7. w9l

    w9l Light Load Member

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    Stud spacer? What is that? I have been getting 4 3/8x1.25" non magnetic black cat bolts and 4 shiny steel Cat locknuts or stover nuts and a gasket. That's it.
    I almost think they are snapping. I think the top rt hand bolt is the one that leaves every time the more I think about it. Just wonder if possibly the back side of manifold flanges where bolt head or nut seats might not be parallel with seating surface where gasket goes and putting sort of a side load on bolt?
     
  8. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    Torque them to 35 lb/ft... they will not break again. I went through the same thing.

    You'll need to get a 3/8" drive wobble extension from HF and then grind the waist down a little bit more so the socket can angle a little more. Use the thinnest/shortest 12 point socket you have.
     
    w9l Thanks this.
  9. W900AOwner

    W900AOwner Heavy Load Member

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    We have a machine shop up our way that takes those leaky and warped Cat manifolds and planes them, and machines an internal groove in each section and installs a carbon ring (just like a piston ring) that sits in the groove that seals the sections and eliminates the leaky joints. But by the time you pay them, I buy a brand new manifold from HHP for $330.00, and problem solved anyway, LOL.
     
    w9l Thanks this.
  10. w9l

    w9l Light Load Member

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    I ended up making a 2" offset torque adapter by taking a 12pt box end wrench and cutting it off short enough that when I welded the female 3/8 drive part of a socket to the end of it the distance between the center of the box end and 3/8 drive part is exactly 2". Then use one of the online calculators that tells you what to set torque wrench at to achieve the desired 35 ft. lbs. torque. The way my turbo is designed there is really no room for a socket and any extension on the top forward bolt .
     
  11. w9l

    w9l Light Load Member

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    Also, had a old timer cat mechanic that I have a great deal of respect for instruct me to lift up on the turbo itself prior to torquing fasteners so that the weight of the turbo is resting on the bolts in such a way to side load them. I sat a chunk of 2x6 on top of hoses running along frame rail and used a small bottle jack to support turbo in such a position. I lifted it no higher with the jack than what I could by hand. Just couldn't lift by hand and tighten things at the same time.
     
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