Crankshaft Replacement

Always nice to have as many pieces of the puzzle as possible before trying to solve it. That being said, it's an eye opener listening to your plight as I'll have to make these same decisions hopefully later than sooner.

 

I've done diesel rebuilds also and I have run diesels for most of my life. The point that I was making is that once you introduce metal into an engine it probably is best to start with a new engine because the labor cost would be much higher with the complete disassembly testing and cleaning unless you did it yourself. It is a lot more work than putting a new engine in. You can't just do a quick rebuild. Most shops that rebuild engines do not have a machine shop. Everything would have to be disassembled and sent out. Everything. Then it has to come back and be reassembled. That is the only way that you can approach this once metal has been introduced to the engine. Most shops would rather get your truck in and get it out. It takes a lot more down time to clean and inspect and rebuild rather than install a new engine.

It's a shame that happened. Because if you've rebuilt that engine before and the crankshaft was in good shape and you never overheated it you probably could have had no problem to rebuild it easily again.

You certainly could do the work yourself if you choose to. But it really all has to come apart and be sent out.

Good luck.

 

That’s cheap I was just quoted a signature 600 with 1.4 on it. It spun a cam shaft bearing. Quote was $45,000 at Cummins. My trusted shop was still 35k

 

I think your mechanic is looking out for your long term interest and his.
That damaged cam tooth. If the metal is not in the oil pan, where is it?
Good luck.

 

Tow that ruck down to Haggai in Griffin GA.
(678) 688-8107

 

That’s what I think I would do. Freightliner Knoxville rebuilt my last one . Had shavings inside block from cutting counter bores . I asked about that they replied oil filter will pick it up that’s normal!! I couldnt believe it.They made me buy turbo water pump thermostats all of which were fairly new to get warranty.Never again.My current Detroit was rebuilt with-bare necessities for $10k less and has 1.2 ml w/ good oil samples.Looks like a big chunk out of gears. Did any of it turn up? My Cat did that but the teeth were found.

 

Like they say with hydraulics: Its not the stuff you can see, its the stuff you can't that causes the damage and premature wear.

 

I put a engine in it. I’ll either sell the block or rebuild it when I have time to play. So probably never just sit in my shop.

 

What if blew an injector and ran 60 miles putting 20 gallons of fuel into oil b4 the computer shut it down?

 

To really inspect the crank correctly it would have to come out of block which means engine is coming out of chasis. Crank would need to inspected by reputable machine shop that could check total run out(bend), some sort of crack detection, and hardness of journals. Most cranks in diesel engines are forged steel with induction hardened journals. Just don't see much measurable wear on them. Most common failure I have seen with the ISX crank is spinning a rod bearing. I know a guy that spun one and he insisted reusing his block and putting new genuine Cummins crank in it. It ending up costing more than a crate ISX from Cummins when said in done. He said peace of mind knowing what he had was worth it. Crate engine is quicker and cheaper, but it is a gamble what you are getting. Sister truck spun a rod bearing and that guy went crate ISX. @ 400,000 head had to come off and had multiple cracks. Both were CM870 ISX's.