DPI . Look them up on the Internet. They are in Utah , but have dealers around the country. Any authorized Diesel Performance dealer can do the EGR delete. It's not cheap. About 2800.00.
cummins isx new turbo and thrownig code
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ok i put another few tousands miles and still have that noise!!!!! turbo bust usually comes to 26-27 psi, ocassionally to around 31 then shhhhhhhh comes and boost drops to 26 psi whatta h@@####@, went to cummins this wenseday ,service guy came outside to look at it....he said turbo works very well and there is nothing to worry about, i explained how engine/turbo is acting and what boost it gets,he considered that 26 is way to low, should be around 36-38 psi , i didnt have time to put mu truck in his cummins shop because will get late on my delivery...but he pointed for me these things ,,,check CAC ,check egr gas diff and air sensors mounted on air intake, electric turbo controller mounted on bottom front left side of engine....he said sheeeezing noise turbo makes is because it cant make full boost ....what you guys think to check first for possibilities and $$$ of course???? any advice appreciate
in addition ,my engine starts very hard ,needs very long cranking time to fire up, i replaced prime pump(electric one) no improvement at all.....do some internet research and found that before injectors in supply line is some kind of check valve and right after fuel goes back to the tanks there is same kind of check valve to keep pressure in supply injector line??? i assuming maybe in my engine fuel pressure is to low (ocasionally show me low fuel pressure code) thats why engine ecu see that and restrict the turbo to build higher boost ....??
If you have the INSITE program on a notebook computer , and the USB adapter cable , you could probably figure this problem out , by looking at what your engine is doing , going down the road.
Otherwise , I guess the best advice I can give you , is to find a good Cummins mechanic , at an independent shop , to work with you , on this problem.
As to boost pressure , I just replaced my turbo , on my ISX , and the boost pressure is still about 26-27 lbs.
have you checked or replaced your air filter ? I didn't think mine needed replacing , cause the restriction gauge said no restriction . It was wrong. I replaced both filters . The one on the right side was stopped up bad!
no i do have a INSIT but dont have a adapter .....my shop does, with turbo replacement i changed oil plus all filters ....Pawpaw you seems more knowlegable than me ,would you explain these actuators to me, are these 4 acuators on left side of engine on fuel pump housing??? they all have electric plg on the bottom ,right? whatt means 2 are timing and 2 are metering? whats they purpose ?? they never been changed in my engine ,i have 1,110,000 original miles with no overhaul by the way ,and everything seems original yet maybe its time for them,,,,about boost pressure its pretty low also in your engine ,cummins spec said needs to be in 36-38 psi range, lower boost cousing low pulling power, kill mpg, even heats up engine and components -more fuel than compressed air in air fuel mix going to engine combusion chamber...i will check CAC system this week as cummins spec said start from thereLast edited: Jan 26, 2013
The adapter is $714.00. In your case , it would be money well spent. Otherwise , you'll be throwing money at parts , and maybe labor , replacing things at a hit or miss guess. With the adapter , and a notebook ,you'll have real time information to base your decisions on . There are people on here that can help, but they need more information .
I know one , I'll try to get him to look at your thread.
Actuators do just what the description of them says . 2 control the timing of the fuel delivery, one for the front three cyclinders , the other for the rear three.
The metering ones do the same. The ECM tells them how much fuel to deliver to each bank of injectors.
The injectors are pure mechanical. Actuated by the cam , I think.
In your situation , yes , it could be the actuators , or , it could be your fuel pump. It could be a bad injector , or two. Without real time information , most " mechanics " are going to say " well , it sounds like you need to replace _________ . Most will be either guessing , or " going by the book".
It's your money. Spend it wisely.
Oh , one other thing. There is a sensor , located on top of the thermostat housing. It should have a rubber boot over it. Check it. It should have 3 electrical pins . On my engine , the boot was cracked , or slit open. Water got down inside , and fried the " Hot " connector off. Darn thing is about $120.00.Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
wooow you help me a lot....many thanks again.....i know what sensor you talking about ,its a exhaust gas pressure sensor and when it fail its a mess then, i replaced mne already about year ago, was broken rubber boot and 2 pins rusty.....if you could invite this person to my tread would be great, my shop dont know and wants to throw parts, i dont have a adapter, this person could point me to better radius in my engine to what to look for, relly apreciate that
The pyrometer sensor that was left out after your turbo was installed is only there to run the gauge. The ECM does not use it. It is a useful gauge to have, but it is not absolutely necessary.
Your low boost problem could be caused by a number of things - from a leaky after cooler, to a bad sensor. Without being able to actually lay hands on the truck, all I can do is guess. Guessing gets expensive. You could even have a plugged muffler causing a derate due to excessive exhaust backpressure. If you have your EGR unplugged, that could be part of the problem. There have been reports of ISX's going into silent derate when the EGR is unplugged. I'm a big fan of the EGR deletes, along with removing the components and blocking everything off. The EGR valves can work their way open, and blocking everything off is the only sure way to make sure the EGR is completely disabled. On a side note, when you ask Cummins what could be wrong, they're assuming you have a functioning emission system. When you unplug/delete the emission system, you have to take that into consideration with your troubleshooting, as the dynamics are changed.
Your low fuel pressure could be one of the two pressure regulators in the fuel housing, it could be your gear pump, or even air in the fuel. I do not think the actuators would cause low fuel pressure. Again, all I can do is guess.
Oh, one more thing.
There was another thread , I think on here , and I think the man also had a Volvo. He was not getting the right boost pressure , either.
Some of the others can check me on this , but I think I learned , on that thread , that the VGT turbo in controlled by air pressure.
The way his air system was plumbed , it turned out the actuator for the turbo was not supplying enough air , at the right pressure , for his turbo to work correctly.
He went thru his supply , I think he said from his air tank forward , and replaced the air lines and fittings.
Solved his problem.
I think he said he had front ( steer ) air bags , and they all ran off one supply hose.
Hope that helps.
Dang ! Another thing. When u go to start your truck , do you turn the key to " ON" , wait 15 seconds or so , then start it ? If so , does it still take a long time to start ?
If so , you might want to check your fuel lines, fittings tight , no leaks you can see .
And , did this just start after you had the turbo replaced , or had it been doing it?
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