cummins isx new turbo and thrownig code

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by gregor, Dec 26, 2012.

  1. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    hi, im having mess in my head :)) ok ,my whole exhaust system is new ,its not even a year old so would exclud it as a problem, about CAC im gonna check it this week and let you know how it goes, egr yes is unpluged but dont have money to do egr delate from my ecu ( somebody answered me it cost about 2800$$$ ) thats why i just unplued it and i think to fit some steel plate on the end of egr tube when it sticks to intake pipe ( welded ) and i hope would be enough... as of fuel pump and housing i cant see that anyone before touch anything in there, so im thinking to take it off ,tear apart clean it and replace parts if availiable ,btw cant see fuel drops but all housing is wet and part of engine where it stick to it,,,, i know there are 2 check valves ,one is 250 psi and other 380 psi, maybe is good idea to replace them ,also shut off valve could be stuck somewhere in the middle ??? (my engine after i turn the key in off position still running for about good 4 sec.) before every fire up i turn the key to ON and wait until primary (electric) pump finish fueling ,about 2 minutes but it doesnt help ,engine still needs at least 6-7 crankshaft turns to fire up no matter of its temp. or cold or warm weather......its been doing since i bought this truck 3 years ago
    yes if we talking about air supply i did it,i replaced every single air line and fitting from forward air tank plus air manifold .....i also did same thing in rear and it helped a lot ,after weekend my truck sitting high and both gauges show me around 90 psi and that makes me happy,
    this week a got off so my plan is to check CAC, replace air sensor and egr diff sensor on air intake ,plug egr intake tube and check why fuel system housing is wet (from fuel)
     
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  3. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    ohhh thank you guys for answers and let you know how my progress will be, also if anyone need air supply scheme for a volvo gen2 with front air suspension i can help with it or try to post it here
     
  4. Strange77

    Strange77 Light Load Member

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    Oct 1, 2011
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    Gregor......I hate to inform you but if your engine does not shut down immediately when you cycle the key off, youre looking at injector issues. Each injector has 2 check balls in them (#### near impossible to spot unles they are blown out or know where they are). Like someone else has stated prior, with out me putting hands on the engine, when someone has a concern with "engine run on" you have blown check balls in your injectors. Now there is a real simple way to check for it although you do need proper tooling. You need to remove the meterings actuators ones at a time install a fake metering actuator to the space where you remove the actuator and a 1/4" tube connects to it then run it to a bucket of water. Disconnect the power plug to the ECM so unit does not start (make sure key is off when unplugging and plugging in connector) and crank engine if there is ANY BUBBLES AT ALL you will need to put the other end of tube to manometer and bar engine by hand. I agreed with earlier statement when you disable EGR and not delete the ECM takes it apon itself to derate the engine. could be entire issue.
     
    gregor Thanks this.
  5. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    just lost me breath for a minute........i hope injectors are fine but thanks for tip i will check them out, i dont get a fake actuator??? is it kind of special tool for this test? how about bubbles ,they means my injectors are POS? do you know what pressure range spouse to be for 2006 isx 475 hp ?? sorry for many questions but need to find out.....appreciate your time
     
  6. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    thats exactelly what im hearing , m shop got hooked up a computer to my truck, check everything and said one sensor goes bad on intake, its a gas diff pressure sensor so i replaced , havent chance to checked with hooked trailer so i tell you monday how it goes, anyway i feel i spent already to much money and untill my truck still avg. 6.5 mpg im gonna drive it cus its good enough to make money , but will post you whats happening, so e guy on this forum has the same problem , he replaced turbo controller and it didnt help ,im thinking my 1,101.000 miles engine needs inejctors and maybe more stuff to do than its worth right now.......maybe im wrong if you think so then tell what next....
     
  7. pawpaw1

    pawpaw1 Medium Load Member

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    Sep 9, 2011
    Dallas,Ga.
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    Well, I replaced my turbo , too, as well as the turbo control switch. And if I was getting 6.5 MPG , I'd be a happy camper.
    As to replacing the truck , why trade a known issue , that you are on the way to solving , with an entirely new set of unknown problems ?
    In my situation , it is not economically possible, nor really , wanted. I have about 5 payments to go , and then , if it needs a rebuild , or other major work , well , we'll see.
    There's a local shop here , that runs their own trucks , and they are old school. Everything they have is turning 700-800 HP. They are Heavy Haul , and those boys know how to make a truck run.
    They will work on outside trucks , so I'll have mine towed to their shop , if need be.
    As to injectors , yeah , they're expensive , but if it solves your problem , it's worth it.
    As to the miles , well , all you can do , is maintain it , and plan for an overhaul. If you start planning for known issues , which you should anyway , you won't be surprised when they happen.
    Have a reserve fund , for the unknown problems that crop up , and you'll do OK.
     
  8. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    i know, i know im just tired of spending money, as in air ride valve you can read how much time and money i spent to fix vibrations problem in my truck.....i spent more time going around from shop to shop, sit myself on yard figuering out what $&@$'l is going on insted of spending my weekends with my wife and kids !!! ok, i found a problem with a bit help from this forum ,a bit from shops experience together and myself......
    im thinking of my engine it could be over in 10000 or 190000 miles, nobody knows it might be a year or so, so its not worth it to spend more money on it as i already did in last 2 months, another 6 K for turbo and trying solve a problem , as i said shes still at 6,5 mpg wich its not bad so im gonna drive it till she die.....last friday had surgery so this week off without making money, taxes are coming as hundredc other big expenses , we cant riun ourselfs becouse of #### truck!!!! i will start working monday and will try figure out the problem but with no hurry, maybe we need more info from relly expiernced people instead of throwing parts, more info and patience in what we trying to do.....
    went to shop thursday and we hooked the computer, it showed some differential air pressure sensor or something like this, there are two bigger and smaller on air intake, so bigger was bad 100$ just a sensor plus labor, then another problem with accelerator sensor but mechanic said volvo dealer sell whole pedal assembley around 250$ but i belive i seen sensor itself for 40$ and i try to find and order it....as of CAC they were so busy and i didnt have appt we left this for monday before i start my trip so tell you with my searching/ money spending :biggrin_25524:
    i read that Pawpaw yoy replaced turbo controller and didnt help, my mechanic pointed on it but i stoped him becouse of your expiernce thats why i also share my expiernce on this forum
     
  9. Strange77

    Strange77 Light Load Member

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    Oct 1, 2011
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    Everything you said is more than justifiable for you to be angry, but at some point you need to find one shop and perferably one technician to work on it if you havent already done so. Hopefully the shop and tech you find are well educated and expirienced with the engine. But from what i've seen as soon as parts are being guessed at its probably time to leave. And that's the hard thing to do here in a forum, anyone who gives you a recommendation its not a gaurantee its nothing more than a "hey this worked for me hopefully it works for you". Myself personally I do not claim to be great but I do happen to see a lot of things differently and have figured out many a problem that has ended up in the shop I work for because it's been to all other shops in my area. I can state for a fact there has only been 2 units I could not figure out in my 6 years expirience. But also those trucks ive had in front of me where I was able to operate the unit listen to it and monitor what the ECM is reading and doing under varying percents of load. Now I'm on here to just give feed back and what I think your or anyones issue may be.

    Yes the "Fake Actuator" is a troubleshooting tool, thats not what its really called but that's what it looks like. And what it does is it takes the place of the metering actuator so when you crank the engine it verifies the condition of the check balls in the injector. What the bubbles in the water show is that compression is comming up through the injector and in to the fuel system. There should be no compression gases coming up in to the injector. And the #1 sign that this is happening is when you turn the engine off with the key they engine continues to run for longer than normal. its not a full run like an idle would sound but more like it stumbles to a stop.
     
  10. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    thanx for info , i will repeat this about fake actuator to my mechanic and i hope he got this tool so beside of checking cac we can check another very important thing , i guess these two things can tell us a lot....thank you again and as soon as i do this things i let you know ....
     
  11. gregor

    gregor Light Load Member

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    May 13, 2011
    chicago,il
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    took some time but finally.....after turbo boost sensor on intake man. replacement i see slight improvement with turbo boost , now is min. at 27-28 psi, so its getting better and im happier, also noticed that different gears give me different boost, lets say low gears around 30 psi, from 6 to 9 i see 28 psi then on 10,11,12 -- 30-32 psi and last 13 gives 27 max. boost .....we checked ecm with insite and no restriction has been found....also i found air leak from black plastic plate on firewall ( pass thur ???) so i and mechanic we think it could be a problem so im gonna change on monday.....becouse of air leak ( 2 top 1/4 inch tubes fittings and 2 bottom 1/2 inch lines) top tank looses pressure constantly every 4 minutes......turbo is suplyed from top tank so this could be real problem building up boost pressure????? what you think?
     
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