detroit 60 start requirements

Buddy
Do you have a mechanic? Perhaps mobile

 

Go to the batt box and find the 2 small wires conn. to pos and neg. batt posts they lead to your ECM, clean both of them and ck the fuse inside the plastic box on the pos. wire, then try to start it

 

Worked for me 2 days ago also check ecm fuse at battery connection. Will cause the condition also

 

Make sure the fuse is tight and not corroded also, I’ve seen them loosen and drop power intermittently.

When you turn the key on both the red and yellow engine lights should come on for a few seconds if the ECM is powered.

If you pull the power connector from the ecm you can test that circuit wit a light bulb. (Headlight if available. If that doesn’t work, follow the wires from the battery to the ecm, pull that group of wires down and remove them from the loom, look for any knicks, swells, crimp connectors, anything that’s not a good clean repair, etc.

On that old of truck, any knick in the insulation could have corroded, or burn the wires. Any repairs to those wires should be repaired with soldered and heat shrink (good shrink with glue)

If you’ve followed them all the way to the ECM, and all is well, you should be able to find the ignition wire from the cab to the ecm. Should be a one of the other wires coming from the same ecm connector. Run a jumper to the battery and the truck should start if it’s a cab wiring issue. I’d be guessing if I tried to help with any wiring to the cab.

 

Also requires correct input from two timing sensors.

 

The green around the ignition I’m assuming is corrosion. If that’s the case you need to remove all of it. If your looking for your repair to last.... As you strip the wires back, keep going until you have good clean copper. Solder everything. The cheaper heat shrink will do fine inside the cab, but make sure anything in the elements has a glue to seal them. With electricity, air is bad, moisture is worse, and any corrosion or loose connections make heat, heat drops voltage, and low voltage will burn up any electrical component. Looking into my crystal ball ( don’t get excited it’s only right about 10% of the time). A previous owner may not have known how to roll up a window, rain got the ignition switch wet, it corroded, gave low voltage to the light bar burned it up, and probably burnt up the ignition wire to the engine ECM. You maybe better off to search this sight, find a thread where someone has identified the pins for the power side of your DDEC 1,2,3 connector. Find the ignition pin, splice in and make the engine run before you get to into rebuilding the dash.

As I think about it, I think the cab power is taken off the lug of the starter, you could have a problem there???
Also, There May be a chance you can find the ignition out wire in the fuse panel and jump it from a power source there. there is supposed to be a curcuit diagram on the back of the cover/panel. Maybe an option that would cause less cutting and repairing wires.

 

Also check Starter relay/ junction block on firewall above steering shaft and below wiper motor wires prone to break