Dpf 2009 pete 387 isx

shut the truck down. let it sit for awhile. fire her up.

mine shut the engine light off. dpf light was still on. i was able to push the regen button for 5 seconds. and the regen kicked in. lasted 10 minutes when it shut off and the red engine light came on. it won't regen if the engine light is on.

went 4 weeks with no problems. then the engine light came on. and my turbo quit. i basically coasted 75 miles with no turbo to the nearest kw who sent me down the road to rush.

my problem was your pid131. egr pressure sensor. $450 for diag. sensor and egr clean. i'm glad it was that. and not the turbo itself.

560,000 miles. 09 t660 isx 450

only time dpf comes on now. is when i'm coasting off the freeway exit or what not. the light usually shuts off. but i can also hit the switch and regen kicks in. when the light is on.

that was last month. and i'm pretty sure the other 2 codes you had were also the same. but again. the regen couldn't kick in becuase of the engine light. that's why those 2 codes kicked in.

my understanding is a dpf clean runs upwards of $8G. don't know how true that is though.

 

Don't let the TA work on that truck.....dealership is probably your best option at this point.

You've only had this truck for a short time. You need to get up to speed with its short comings... Mainly the whole emissions system. It's a full time job to keep them running . If you can't stay ahead of this engine it will bury you financially !

 

If you just want to get the DPF filter cleaned and baked which is supposed to be done around 300,000 mile interval from the factory recommendation that cost 600.00 dollars to take off and bake it and clean the other parts inside the canister.I just had it done at cummins in tampa around 50,000 miles ago. If you need to change and clean all the sensors that is another question. But from my experience if you are going to get it done get the whole job done or you will be back in shop.Been down that road!!

 

I would definately suggest do what rawze suggested as that would be your cheapest route and and cant hurt by doing it anyway. Then if after that still problems then you know it is a bigger issue. Good luck. Actually I need some luck to as I been dealing with this too. You are definitely not alone with this situation. I need to go buy myself some mechanic clothes or I will be broke with this truck in less than a year really thinking about trading it in.

 

Cleaning sensors and pressure tubes is a great place to start. It is frustrating that not all techs know about this. You really need to find a shop that is good with that particular brand of engine. Too many shops get spread thin with having techs work on Cats, then a Cummins, then Mercedes, then a Paccar engine and so on. If you are spread too thin, it gets hard to get good a one particular brand over the other. If you describe your problem to the tech and you get mostly confused looks and scratched heads back in return, you are talking to the wrong guy. Most of the really good techs may be too busy with newer models and so they send out the second string guy to take of your problem. I won't make excuses for those shops, but trust me, there are good techs out there!!! (lots of bad ones too).
All the codes you listed should also have a time stamp on them. The codes for the DPF plugging are progressive. The more plugged your system gets the more severe the codes become. There are 4 levels of soot plugging your DPF will encounter. Level one is the only one you can drive through, level 2 and 3, you MUST do a parked regen. Level is 4 is shut down, too late, too plugged and only a laptop connected to the truck and perform a forced regen.
Most trucks go like this; when you need a regen, you are at level one. This is a solid DPF filter light in the dash. You can drive through this, or do a parked regen. Not all driving conditions are optimal for a successful regen while driving(passive regen).
Level two; DPF light starts to flash. The DPF is too full for a passive regen, you MUST pull over soon and start a parked regen.
Level three; DPF light is still flashing, plus the Check Engine Light will be on. The DPF is over full, you MUST pull over and perform a regen NOW.
Level four; DPF light flashing, STOP engine light is now on. Too late, regen must be forced with a computer connected to the engine.
Each level creates it's own fault code and time stamp. It is possible the DPF diff pressure sensor went from level 1 straight to level 4 because it is faulty. The time stamp on the fault codes will confirm this, because they will be all the same time event. Normally it may take about an hour to go from level 1 to level 4 with no driver interaction.
Fault code 1981 will disable active regens because this is the most severe DPF plugged state.
Do you remember any of these sequences? What did you do?