Engine/ Marker Light Problems

Spartan0229 · Jul 8, 2017

First of all. I am a Nubiee and thank you for reading. I just bought an 2006 International 4300 DT466. For the most part I like my truck. It's a little bumpy but I can deal with. But the problem is if I turn on my Markers or manually turn on my head lights the truck starts to run bad. From a dead start it act like it has no power and when I get up to speed the turbo starts whistling weirdly, then shuts off and the yellow check engine light comes on. I took it to a (supposed to be) repair shop and after holding Her hostage for 4 days they blurt out I need a new wiring harness. They did put it on the machine using the International software and it came up with no codes. Then they used a generic software and it came up with the turbo actuator and lifter No.1 was malfunctioning. So I am at a lost and not sure where to start and I am sure it is something loose somewhere but I don't know where to start. :::::: Side note. My front top side maker was not working when I was buying this truck. They fixed it but didn't ground it good. I tighten it up and hope for the best but my problem still persist. Please Help.

Wallyjr · Jul 8, 2017

Take it to a dealer shop!!! Even though some shops are authorized dealer shops like TA/Petro they sometimes don't know difference from their butt and hole in the ground.

Spartan0229 · Jul 9, 2017

Yea the only problem with that is International in Dallas/McKinney will keep it a week and a half to two weeks before they even look at it. With me being a contractor with one truck that is paycheck suicide.

Heavyd · Jul 9, 2017

I think your truck is starving for electrical power. Check the ecm main power harness which should be fed from the batteries. Check the fuses and fuse holder terminals for being loose or corroded. Next, check your cab power supply. Look for big red cables that go through the firewall on the left hand side. They should have connectors for the outside and inside sections near the firewall on the outside. Disconnect them and also check for burnt or corroded pins. After that, International likes to cheap out and use the frame rail for the main ground between the batteries and starter/rest of the truck. So the engine and cab ground to the starter ground with a short cable bolted to the frame, and then another cable bolted to the frame near the batteries to connect to battery negative. Sometimes the connection at the frame becomes rusted and corroded and creates a poor electrical connection.

Spartan0229 · Jul 9, 2017

Heavyd said: ↑

I think your truck is starving for electrical power. Check the ecm main power harness which should be fed from the batteries. Check the fuses and fuse holder terminals for being loose or corroded. Next, check your cab power supply. Look for big red cables that go through the firewall on the left hand side. They should have connectors for the outside and inside sections near the firewall on the outside. Disconnect them and also check for burnt or corroded pins. After that, International likes to cheap out and use the frame rail for the main ground between the batteries and starter/rest of the truck. So the engine and cab ground to the starter ground with a short cable bolted to the frame, and then another cable bolted to the frame near the batteries to connect to battery negative. Sometimes the connection at the frame becomes rusted and corroded and creates a poor electrical connection.
Click to expand...

Thanks Heavyd! This gives me somewhere to start. I will be posting what I find as I go on this. Because I just don't have 2K to be shelling out like that of something I can do myself. Thanks again!

Spartan0229 · Jul 9, 2017

Heavyd said: ↑

I think your truck is starving for electrical power. Check the ecm main power harness which should be fed from the batteries. Check the fuses and fuse holder terminals for being loose or corroded. Next, check your cab power supply. Look for big red cables that go through the firewall on the left hand side. They should have connectors for the outside and inside sections near the firewall on the outside. Disconnect them and also check for burnt or corroded pins. After that, International likes to cheap out and use the frame rail for the main ground between the batteries and starter/rest of the truck. So the engine and cab ground to the starter ground with a short cable bolted to the frame, and then another cable bolted to the frame near the batteries to connect to battery negative. Sometimes the connection at the frame becomes rusted and corroded and creates a poor electrical connection.
Click to expand...

My OCD compelled me to go and put an eyeball on my truck to look and see what you told me. I didn't have time to do a thorough job. But this is what I found. I believe i found the Ground wires that was explained to me. I made sure that they were not loose. (I couldn't get to the one on the motor yet, but I will.) But what I did see in the third pic that the Wiring Harness is spliced into the Power terminal and wrapped up in electrical tape. To me that doesn't look normal.

Heavyd · Jul 9, 2017

That firewall looks remarkably clean. Wiring looks good. I those main red cables are once piece with path-throughs in the firewall, so they may not have connectors. The electrical tape is somewhat normal. A good test for load testing wires is to see if the wire can brightly light a headlight bulb. If you connect one of those fuse sockets to a wire, then power up a headlight, it should light no problem. If the wire is bad the headlight will be dim. With the headlight connected and lit up, you can also wiggle the harness there to see if anything is broken. Pay close attention to any discoloration or slight plastic melting as that shows a bad connection causing heat. Also, watch your volt gauge and see if it drops off when you have the lights on.

Heavyd · Jul 9, 2017

Also, in the second picture, your fuel primer is sticking out. Push it back in and tighten it, it may be sucking some air with it out like that.

Spartan0229 · Jul 9, 2017

Heavyd said: ↑

That firewall looks remarkably clean. Wiring looks good. I those main red cables are once piece with path-throughs in the firewall, so they may not have connectors. The electrical tape is somewhat normal. A good test for load testing wires is to see if the wire can brightly light a headlight bulb. If you connect one of those fuse sockets to a wire, then power up a headlight, it should light no problem. If the wire is bad the headlight will be dim. With the headlight connected and lit up, you can also wiggle the harness there to see if anything is broken. Pay close attention to any discoloration or slight plastic melting as that shows a bad connection causing heat. Also, watch your volt gauge and see if it drops off when you have the lights on.
Click to expand...

One more thing while it's on my Noone brain. If it is because the load is too strong for the 2 batteries i have. Can I add a 3rd one for more power?

Heavyd · Jul 9, 2017

Batteries are really only needed for cranking. Three would be better, but two should be fine. Once the engine is running, the alternator is supplying all the power anyway.

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