7.2 mpg overall avg. on all miles. My little truck with trailer weighs in around 38K empty which probably hurts me some on deadhead.
I haul all kinds of freight, The milatary trucks cut me down to around 6 mpg but I make up for it in other ways. Mostly by keeping the speed at or below 61mph. Also use the crusie as much as possible. And very little idling as I have a generator.
Flatbed MPG
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by twolane, Dec 13, 2012.
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Thats darn good with open eqpt!
What's the specs? Truck, engine, trans, gears, tires, etc?
My outfit won't pull at that speed. In my case 63 mph on cruise keeps me between 62 & 64 mph at about 1450 rpm. Tho it's pattin' the ground at 1200 rpm, 1300 is where I'm droping a gear to keep it in the cherry-patch. -
Specs. are 550 Cat engine, FASS system, 18 speed Trans., don't remember the rears but 18th gear at 60mph puts my rpms at 1450 which I beleive is the sweet spot.
I also run alot of FPPF fuel additive. Also I adjust my valves (running the overhead) approx. every 40-50K miles. Just cost me time as I do that my self.
Synthic oil in trans. only..
I think having a stepdeck with boxes down the sides might help slightly.DrtyDiesel and twolane Thank this. -
Averages as shown on mygauges.com website. 1998 FTL Century (mid-roof) 460 N-14 CelectPlus, 10sp direct 2.79 rears on 22.5LP Smartway LRR tires all the way around. Load freight as far forward as possible to reduce air gap, try to keep speed around 57-58 but "do what I gotta do" when time matters. Honda EU2000 generator and rooftop AC complete the picture.
30 day 7.81
60 day 7.08
90 day 7.90
Why anyone would spend 10K for an APU, with proprietary parts, and service typically $350 a couple times a year is beyond me. I replace my generator every Jan, about $1000, many pay that just for service. But I either keep the old one for around the house, or sell it easily for $600 if I want a near instant sale on Craigslist, or $700-800 if I have some time. Not a bad investment. As other person said, under $2K invested, to me that's thousands saved. Being able to fix or replace parts anywhere in the US or CAN is a plus too.
Biggest fuel saver is to slow down, but most don't want to hear that.Boardhauler and twolane Thank this. -
I don't look at it as slowing down but look at it as not driving fast.
twolane and DrtyDiesel Thank this. -
A lot of guys have slowed down to 75 from 80
blacklabel and DrtyDiesel Thank this. -
spacetrucker - while that may be true, it's not quite what I had in mind!
flightline - I never thought of it that way but it's a good way to look at it. In the earlier days of this industry it was a multi day trip to go from Lancaster County PA and surrounding areas to the markets in NYC. If you could do 40mph you were driving like a madman on the roads they had to deal with back then.
Whether paid on mileage or percentage, the majority of us who own our trucks get a flat rate for the loads we haul. The less we spend on fuel the more that's left in our pockets. Slower is less heat in all engine and drivetrain components including tires, and more life out of them, additional profit in the long term. But, to each their own, at least so far we have some choice, until the FMCSA, CARB, EPA, TSA, CRASH, PETA, SPCA, and whatever other group of initials manages to take all our choices away from us.twolane Thanks this. -
Roshea: Speaking of heat, thermostates are another big thing I find effects my fuel economy. Currently running 195 thermostates. Actually the hotter (without overheating) the better fuel economy. I also have three engine temp. gauges in the dash. One for oil and two water. The two water is at different points. I see alot of trucks that have run 180-190 thermostates. This will cut fuel economy alot. I'm looking at ways to safely run at 200 to help fuel economy also.
Another thing, I'm considering is propane injection. I beleive this will get me another 1-2 miles per gallon.DrtyDiesel Thanks this. -
I'm not familiar with the propane injection at all, but always skeptical of anything that claims a massive increase in mileage or performance. As far as temperature, diesels are very sensitive to operating temperature. As you put in higher thermostats your margin of error for overheating with conventional anitifreeze/coolant decreases. Have you considered any of the alternate coolants with a much higher boiling point that would not boil over at temps well above what conventional glycol type coolants tolerate, such as Evans waterless coolant? Boils at 375° if I recall correctly.
Do you have any links to more info on the propane injection? -
You must remember that engine components are designed/machined to operate at a certain temp. Like a piston for example isn't round, until it reaches temp. If that temp is increased too much it grows out of round and will "stick". (seize)
If theres not enough heat, the piston is loose in the bore because it hasn't expanded into "round", and ware is a big issue. That's why when ideling, 150 deg. won't do. About 190 is minimum.
Most new engines are designed to run at about 205 deg. 220 is pushing the envelope. Be careful!Last edited: Dec 23, 2012
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