Year 2001
Make International
Model 9400 Eagle condo
Engine Detroit 12.7
Trans Meritor 10 speed direct
Gear Ratio 2.64
Tire Size LP22.5
Type of loads 1998 Monon Dry Van
Normal Cruising Speed 54 mph (1200rpm direct)
MPG:
bobtail: 12.9mpg
deadhead: 10.4mpg
20k lbs: 9.1
43k lbs: 8.4
Modifications: EcoPur OPS-1, K&N air filter, airtabs (came with truck)
Hindrances: lugged recaps on drive & trailer axles, twin-screw drives, no side skirts on truck, no skirts or undertray on trailer, unnecessary driver's side fender mirror, unnecessary external grab bars by doors & catwalk, unnecessary catwalk stairs, external vertical ribs on trailer, no trailer tail
Don't think I'll be joining Dice in the 10mpg club anytime soon, but at my glacial cruising speed I expect to be deep into the 9's with good rubber.
Fuel Milage Poll
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by GearWarrant, Mar 29, 2014.
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Year 2005
Make International
Model 9400i
Engine Cummins ISX
Trans 10 sp 0.73
Gear Ratio 3.55
Tire Size LP22.5
Trailer 53' stepdeck
Normal Cruising Speed 65-70 (speed limit)
MPG: 7.3
I think this is good fuel mileage for pulling stepdeck with a truck without any major mods. I credit it mostly to a weak turbo (not much boost), accelerating slow and easy, working lanes without a lot of traffic or hills, little idling, and drives with less than 50% tread (recaps that were on it when I bought it). I did weld the egr shut, which helps some. Driving 70 instead of 65 costs me about $0.06/mile which is generally worth it to me, the only exception would be extremely bad aerodynamic loads and/or high winds where it would save more to drive slower. Deadheading it is not uncommon for me to see 12+ mpg. -
That's great mileage, gotta love that 12.7 Detroit!
I'm getting 8.5 on this run but only have like 5k in the box haha. At $3.50 a gallon that's .41 cents a mile fuel cost woohoo! -
Year 2015
Make International
Model Prostar
Engine Cummins ISX15 SmartTorque
Tranny Eaton Fuller Ultrashift+ 10sp
Gear Ratio 2.64
Tire Size 295/80/22.5 and super single michelin
Trailer reefer with super singles, undertray UT6+, meritor inflation
Type of loads Frozen food loaded at 19k lbs
Normal Cruising Speed 70 mph
MPG (or GPM, LOL) 9.2 mpg (loaded) 9.5 mpg (empty)
I was riding with my friend's dad to check out his 2015 prostar and see how good the truck is compared to Maxxforce 13 def. Drove around pa and he drove all the way to iowa. -
Anyone hear the caller on today's show that said he got 0.2mpg worse mileage with his tractor axle lifted? He correctly posited that is is because he was lifting weight from a low RR tire to his higher rolling resistance XDN2 drive tires.
KR essentially said eh maybe the difference in tire rolling resistance had a little effect, but he bets it was mostly an aerodynamic effect (?!?!) and that the caller should buy his latest partner product, "flow below," which should fix the problem. He then said XDN2 tires don't offer any better traction and that he should buy X-one energies instead.
Classic case of KR going completely off the rails and giving terrible, terrible, self-serving advice.77fib77 Thanks this. -
Have you ever calculated MPG if you drive slower, say 55 or so?
Did you remove reefer fuel amounts before calculating MPG? -
It was according to people net elog. Yes, I did removed the reefer fuel amounts.
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Put a Yamaha or Honda generator on it from a pawn shop and a window or roof ac unit. Cost under ten a day to run it. Start up cost less than 2000 for window unit.
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Much has changed since I made that post.
Yeah,.. plan is in 3 weeks when I get back home, buying a new Honda 3000 Generator with electric start. Wiring it up with outlets and the start/stop inside my sleeper. Having an aluminum rack with covers for the generator and fuel can mounted to my headache rack. Sticking a 8500 BTU window A/C in my driver side window and storing it on my top bunk when not in use. Got this idea from a guy that parks next to me when I am home. After seeing his set up and doing some research on generators. I feel its now a no brainer. As redneck as putting a window unit in the door of my truck is. I did the math of how much idling costs me vs how much the generator and everything will cost. I'm looking at $2700 for everything when done. I use approx $50 - $70 a day in fuel from idling. If I can reduce that by even just 80%, I will save a lot of money over the course of the year.
2014 was my first year as O/O. Learned a lot. Learned how wasteful and inefficient I was operating. 2015, my wife and I calculate that I can save $15,000 - $20,000 over the course of the year just by being more efficient and cutting costs in various areas.
I spent a lot of money on my truck last year. I am now 90% where I want it to be mechanically. I'm still debating whether I switch to tall 24.5 rubber or not. But truck now sees upper 5's mpg consistently with 6.2 - 6.4 mpg tanks happening more and more. This year I should recoup most of what I spent last year in order to get where I am now. Truck is still mechanically flawless,.. 1.2 million miles now. Just had rod and mains done last month. Hopping to run this truck to 2 million mi the way it is, with just regular maintenance if nothing breaks. Turbos are the only thing I worry about puking on me. Not a cheap replacement on ACCERT motors.
Hurst
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