Galaxy 98 VHP in a T680

You lost me on this, Batteries measured where?

OK here is a question, what harm do you think this will cause?

 

Like dirt in a sensor. (No thanks).

Hall-effect sensors to measure C (coulombs). Rate of discharge, and measures by computer to tailor charging. (Two different battery banks and battery types).

More specifically, what is, “A one-wire installation”? The inverter this truck installed so (40A draw).

Installation not the problem. Only “where” is question.

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Ok I still don't see the issue.

The use of the eld, which is the Hall effect sensor or better put Electrical Load Detector is to maintain the electrical stability within the system on a car/pickup truck for emissions and increase or decrease fueling at idle or near idle.

However I just went through paccars 2019 vecu architecture and electrical manual - what an exciting that was - and the only eld is for the "hotel" batteries to run the smart start system if programmed.

Alan's point does not make sense with trucks where there is no real reason to measure current on the chassis bank. One reason for this the large amount of current that is pulled from the bank, up to 2000 amps can be pulled from the bank to start the truck.

 

Thanks RL. I’m an obsolete Field Service Manual guy.

Appreciate your using your business experience here.

I’ll stick with company guidelines about “one wire” as it’s no harder.

Head mechanic saw my last install (to jump points under hood), but with no comment. That’s less than approval. If he’d seen other routing, maybe a sort of okay.

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Routing is the toughest part.

A 98 won’t fit the cubby unless you do some cutting. And it’s still shallow and without ventilation (I was recently in a T880).

Some remove the center visor and adapt the mount to those holes (bolts thru overhead). Measure. It’s not very wide.

Access to power in this 579 has been by going thru an unused air line hole behind brake pedal.

Otherwise I’d try to use a fishtape to run “up” a factory power lead from the BATT set to INTERIOR dash area.

Voltage drop is “the problem” (length versus max amp draw).

With a 30A max draw amplifier (300W-rated; ahead of my 99 Galaxy) I just barely get away with 6-gauge (draw is closer to 22A) for the length I settled on.

Assuming 4 or 6, I’d pop the A-pillar panels and see what is behind each. With non-optional flame-resistant split loom coverings, those leads are really cables (not just wires).

I set mine up with a 10-gauge paired set 22’ long. Fused ends one way and Anderson PowerPoles at other. 3 other disconnects besides at each end. So can add length to center. Change around. Etc. This was for trial and error. That big stuff gets expensive. (My rig sat on passenger seat).

On Coax I’ve just used fishtape or wire coat hanger to run outside wiring gland to doors. Hard part is interior access to kick panel area. (More of same split loom as above recommended; enough for all power & coax; see ANCOR ).

On these company trucks our antenna is sleeper back. Coax was run thru inverter ground hole grommet on the 2015 I just got out of as factory coax had gone bad.

Spending my time looking, and looking some more paid off best. “No drill” policy at this company. One Wire, and No Drill.

In the meantime I ran my 880 or 885 Unidens behind a 75W baby amp that both install and run off factory circuit in cubby.

Take your time.

The antenna system on a T680 needs some better antennas. 7’ Skipshooters are well liked here. TOPGUNTEC SS Mount Studs (Bobs CB).

High quality co-phase harness (also Bobs). Unless you can talk Ridegeline out of some his NASA-spec MARS SURVEYOR RG-178 Coax he likes to go on about.

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Looks like it turned out pretty well!!

 

I would say if there are so many issues with high powered radios above a Cobra 29 in these new Plastic fiberglass engineered trucks. Than maybe sticking with Fisher- Price radio is the answer. LOL