getting USDOT # AND MC before i bought my actual truck

You can do it, and it could save you some time since it will take 14-21 days for your MC authority to become active after applying. All you need for you MC authority is your public liability and basic cargo insurance, you don't need the insurance to be specific to the truck, a real insurance agent should be able to help you. Don't expect a company like Progressive to be able to do it, but some can.

Remember, there are non-asset companies with full authority, so no you do not need to own a truck to have active authority.

As a final thought, it will probably cost you more for the insurance to have your authority active before you buy your truck than the three weeks of not running will cost you, although if you are buying a somewhat expensive truck the savings in sales/use tax (if your state gives exemption to motor carriers) when you register it may offset this cost.

 

Most insurance companies will not write insurance without tying it to a specific truck.

 

There different kinds of authority's .A non assist co.I think off are usually ran on a brokers athority.there different from interstate .Bottom line you have to have insurance why pay that if not ready to pull freight.

 

-You have to specify if you want carriers authority MC-A or brokerage MC-B. They are not interchangeable.
-You do not need common and contract. They are the same now a days.
-You can't take the brokerage route and then switch to carrier. You would receive a new MC.
-Also to get a MC-B you would need a $75k bond or trust.


-You will get your MC# the day you file. It always take at least 21 days, as there is a 20 day grace period for investigation and others to voice why you shouldn't get your authority.
- Any insurance company these days is electronic interchange with the feds. The day after they file your mcs-90 your mc will go active if you have passed 21 days and everything if ok.
-Make sure you get a paper copy of your mcs-90 and never loose you active copy.

 

He would need a non-specified auto policy, which is obtainable but at a higher cost than a traditional policy where the vehicle is declared.

 

Probably the best advice on this whole thread.