Heavyd , truck shuts down while driving down freeway

@QUALITYTRUCK I'm trying to locate the terminating resistors your talking about. On my data link I have 2 i found. 1 on too of my transmission and one pretty much beside the tranny on too of the frame rail.

I see one that looks like a terminating resistor right at the Cummins ecm plug and then a neon green Delphi thing with some slightly green sockets. All the see is a duescht connector right at the actuators.

 

That neon green is a bus-bar probably for grounds or zero volt references. 55-65 ohms is normal data link resistance, so both your terminating resistors are ok. Datalink problems will never cause the engine to shut down. You still have some sort of main power or ignition power problem. Check the main ignition relays in the panel and make sure their socket terminals all have good drag on them and none have spread.

 

I tested the main power wire running from the battery box to the mega fuses 0 ohm.

From mega fuse to ecm and transmission power .1ohm

From mega fuses to bcm, fuse box, low voltage disconnect then to fuse box all .1 to .2 ohm.

Thought I had it last night as 1 Pronge on the ignition 1 relay was spread. Took them all apart and closed them nice as well as ecm fuse and tcm fuse.

Just pulled entire harness from inside cab to engine out and inspected, all good.

All grounds from ecm to block and starter etc .2 ohm.

It does all kinds of stupid stuff. Right now it won't start, relay clicks that's all. Showing codes from service ranger now.

 

Some times it'll act up while idling and stall the truck, I can fire it right back up but other times it will die and if I start it, it will die again....

So for the last 30 minutes, the truck wouldn't start. Starter relay would just click and these codes were active. I went into the troubleshooting for eaton and checked pins b and c resistance which was 58.9ohm then it said to check resistance between pins a+c and pins a+D and said it should be over 10k ohms. I got OL on both.

It randomly started now and all codes are inactive. Odd thing now is that I can't idle up my engine. When I press cruise, it says cruise on the dash but hitting high idle does nothing. Now that it'll run but no cruise, my computer won't hook up again....... edit* rocked the truck back and forth and high idle started working.

 

Using an ohm meter is not the right way to measure the integrity of power or ignition wires. When checking with ohms, it really is only good when checking for shorts or micro shorts to other circuits. The problem with using a multimeter is that it only sends a low test voltage through the wire. If you have a bad connection your meter will never detect that. You need to load test those circuits. When I test an ignition wire, I will use that wire to power a spare head light bulb. If the wire is good and strong throughout it's whole length, that head light will be nice and bright. If you have a bad spot with 99% of wire corroded to green powder, that headlight will be dim or not light at all. With no load it can still show 12 volts or low resistance with a meter, but it can't support any amperage. This is why your testing may be showing no wire issues when in fact there are. Also, I have the headlight powered and then start wiggling the harness along as much of the wire I can get access to. I watch the headlight during this for any signs of flickering or going dim to help pin point a bad spot.

 

That's funny you say that, I was just talking to my wife about hooking 2 55w halogen 9006 bulbs I have with a Y splitter and was wondering if that would be a good test. Thank you very much for the tip! I'm thinking this makes the most sense with the issues I'm having.

 

Well I got 2 55w halogen bulbs lighting up real nice on here unfortunately. I tested different power and grounding points and all of them test out fine. I'm going to trace where this main power and ground go to for the transmission and do this test down there as well buy I doubt I'll get any different results.

I really hate to throw parts at things but it looking like I may have to toss a ecm or bcm at this thing. I've 100% verified all power and ground for the ecm yet I have this 1117 stalling issue. Only other thing I can think of is maybe the ignition itself is loose internally?

Maybe the ecm is hooped . Guess we'll find out on monday.

 

Man, you are doing everything I can think of. However, that 1117 code is logged when the ECM loses only battery power while still getting ignition. So your ignition isn't failing. When you have ignition problems you won't get the 1117 code because the ECM just thinks you shut off the key. I know you are getting frustrated, but 99% of the time it is a wire or connector problem. I would hate to see you spend big bucks on non-returnable parts to find it didn't fix the problem. I would try to reach out to someone, anyone, who might be able to swap body controllers or even ecms if they have the same engine and try it to help confirm those parts or not.

 

Unfortunately I just moved to this city and know noone. I spoke to Cummins but they won't lend out test ecm. They said to bring it in and they can bench test it which I might do but I doubt it'll cause issue as I've been noticing it acts up way more when the engines warmed up.