Help! FreightShaker Shakin’

Whoa!!! Why would you want to do that? I’m curious, was the shaking problem the reason you changed the carrier bearing? Or a result of having the carrier changed? Or just another problem that showed up afterwards. If so, how long afterwards?

 

Yes a bad power divider can cause a drive line vibration because it is connected to the driveshafts on both ends via the thru shaft. Bad/worn yokes, Loose/bad thru shaft bearings or having wrong end play due to age and wear is the number one issue with the front diff. and is sometimes the only issue but the power divider itself gets the blame.

 

The yokes are softer metal than the joints. I have seen joints go million miles and yoke only go 500,000 or less. Depends on how the driveline is treated. I’ve seen 50 plus year old trucks that look like the joints may be the originals if they were treated right. Spicer date codes them on the ends of the caps.

Don’t replace the joints if they don’t need it. Everytime a bolt is removed or a cap is hammered out of a yoke it just jacks them up, makes them loose and egg shaped.

 

It is only what, 6 joints? half of the day of moving the thing that will cost to buy, start with something. If there were no joints issues, at least you'd know drive live is fine.

 

U Joint remover I've bought long ago, was 170 bux; have no idea what they are running now, but times 4.. to each his oww

 

Seeing how now they up around $70 each for the best quality ones. Replacing them for no reason isn’t really a good thing to do. Unless wasting money is one’s hobby.
Not sure about now but 6 months ago there were a bunch of 1700 series on national backorder due to Spicer not producing them. Second choice Neapco’s were $67.35 ea. and talk was that that supply was dwindling.

 

You don't have to replace anything, and/or.. listen to your intuition, when you are
pushing it to full gas, why are you getting frustrated.? Are you so much on the rush?

 

If you’re cruising along at 1500 RPM. As I read it, you’re Truck starts shaking violently and the tachometer starts jumping up and down between 1100rpm and 1700rpm. Sounds more like an engine problem? No telling. Like SmallPackage said the yokes get eggholed also. Especially if the ujoints been bad for a while. I suggest taking to a driveline shop. They’ll check everything and fix what’s necessary. I did mine a few years back. 4 u joints, 1 slip yoke, 2 new yokes welded onto driveshaft by driveline shop. Still cost almost $1000, with Me doing the Labor. The rear driveshaft/ u joints between the axles is good as new, still has original u joints. Over 2 million miles. Check your motor mounts too. Trucks old enough to need them. I don’t think you have a trans mount. If so check it.

 

If the rear springs are the newer Mercedes design, they’re know for wear plate issues. That’s a rough job, need to replace wear pads, along with the u bolts, since they can’t be reused. Same with u joint bolts. Be sure to use new ones and a torque wrench. The last yoke I replaced on my driveshaft was at the front axle, about a week after I had fixed everything. I must have over tightened it. It snapped off, so did my EZ out. One way to tell if a yoke is eggholed, the u joints caps that bolt to the drive shafts center tack weld will usually be broken.