How to make a truck lighter

240" WB, 2-stack Mack (steel cab) with a Mack (triple countershaft) 18 speed transmission, Mack rears, 2 PTO's, wet kit, tool box stuffed w/tools, another tool box (and the cab) stuffed with equipment, 4 tire chains, steel wheels on the drives (aluminum steers), and 16-ply 11R24.5 tires all of the way around.

It adds up...

Used to work with a guy that had (still has) a beautifully hopped up 379 extended hood with a built 3406B putting down more power than anyone really needs. It had a fairly decent wheelbase, and probably a 60" flat top sleeper.

Pulling identical pneumatic trailers, he was 2000# lighter than me. That was when I had a blower (which he also had) on the 2nd PTO, and before I added the 2nd tool box and stuffed the cab with all of the flatbedding gear.

 

At what point does durability start getting sacrificed for weight savings? Is it really worth shaving 1000lbs off a truck if it'll bust a frame rail after 2 years?

 

Neat!

 

We found the light weight truck!!!

 

Oh,lets see...Yank that pesky "passenger (jump seat outta there),tire chains etc.I have a "Sawzall",if you need to borrow it.

 

You got it all twisted. If you are worried about chasing all freight then you need to reevaluate your game plan.

 

Find an older w9 and rebuild the motor. My 97 is around 18.5k with half full tanks, I don't have any chains or all that stuff in it, a kw or pete hood is going to be difficult to keep below 20k with a lot of stuff in the truck and full tanks.

 

Stay away from the corn dogs and all those fancy, xtra large fake sugared styrofoamed topped iced coffee drinks.
If you can drop 20 or 30 pounds, think of all the fuel you'll save over the course of the rest of your driving career.