I70 Denver

First of all get your head straight. Its not a race. Your job is to get up and down safely. Gear down and use your engine brake for 95% of your braking. If you are using your brakes for more than that they'll be hot if you really need them.
If thats the case you need to slow down and downshift.
If you are uncomfortable, slow down, put on your flashers and let everybody go around you.
Downshift sooner than you normally would, as the truck will slow quickly while shifting and you could end up bogging, missing another shift, and coming to a complete stop. If so just start from a stop and go up to 18-20 mph. Above that only if not fully loaded.
Speeds down depend on load and conditions. Last thursday e bound I came down at 28 mph 78000 lbs. Just before chain laws went into effect. Same road dry light load I'll do 55.

 

All I could say is "the heavier, the better" for when dealing with that particular pass. The way I see it, the 70 going through Vail and such would be the better of all the mountain passes when it comes to snow removal and road care during the winter. Warnings of chain-ups and road conditions posted by the minute on their CDOT site and app. Armies of snow-plows consistently going up and down the pass at all hours when the snow is falling. And then of course their "max" chain-up requirements are pretty quick and easy to adhere to once you get used to throwing them on. All singles, trailer chain-up optional.
If I was still doing long-haul, I'd roll through here as opposed to Donner, Snoqualmie, or any of the coastal state passes that just tend to throw it right at you.

LET THE ROASTING BEGIN.

 

Anticipate what is ahead of you. Traffic, turns, snow blown across the road, the occasional rock and so on. Pay close attention to what your truck is doing. Always err on the side of caution and that means slow down. Bad things happen when you do not have enough experience with mountains.
On the way up, there is plenty of time to think. Not so much going down the other side. If you get stressed, pull over and that a break.

 

Light, steady pressure on the brakes if you're loaded to keep it below about 25 mph on those grades. Be in a lower gear and let the jake brakes do the work. Definitely don't let it get over about 30. Let off the brakes completely for a half second about every 15 seconds to vent the gases that build up on the shoe surfaces. If you have to jam on the brakes for a split second to get it down fast, do it. Just don't lock 'em up. But don't keep that heavy pressure on the brakes. If you have to hold down on the pedal with grunt for longer than about a second, you're going too fast. If the brakes are smoking and the man sees you, you could possibly be pulled over. Plus hot brakes can overheat and glaze over, and they can even crack. Plus they can fade all together and you'll be in a hot pickle.

 

More information on the gases that build up in a brake shoe system and cause fade.

Brake fade - Wikipedia