1994 international 9400 with N14
Trying to figure out a problem with my ignition. the truck will not crank at all, unless I use a toggle switch I made to start it. the toggle is tapped into the BAT terminal and IGN on the switch harness. starts every time when I use the toggle. I was told to run an additional 12 gauge power wire from the BAT wire on the switch harness to a a constant 12v (I chose my magnetic switch relay behind the dash). this didn't change anything. also tried a new ignition switch with no change.
I used a volt meter to measure OHMS from the BAT to IGN on the actual switch (with switch removed from truck) and everything checks out with key on and cranking. any ideas?
Ignition wiring help
Discussion in 'International Forum' started by kev2809, Dec 27, 2024.
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Ok, so those ignition/crank keys switches will have two possible ways to crank the engine. If you have an optional start push button in the dash, then battery power is switched to the "I" terminal when key is switched on, which goes to a push button that you push to enable cranking. If you do not have the extra or optional push button, then cranking power to the starter should be connected to the "S" terminal on the ignition switch. This will send cranking power to the starter when the key is turned all the way to the crank position.
xsetra Thanks this. -
hmm, below i posted a picture of the actual switch. im guessing "S" youre referring to would be "ST" on this one. no, this truck does not have push button, although, i would like to add it. what is odd is it just quit working on its own about 4 or 5 years ago, so i have been running the toggle ever since. sounds to me the problem would be in the actual switch, since i never messed with the harness plug (until yesterday when i added an extra 12v constant wire)?
the new key switch i got from oreilly and is aftermarket. i dont think there is anything wrong with it, however, maybe it isnt internally exactly the same as mine? although all the prongs labeled on the outside are exactly the same. maybe the actual key harness needs to be rearranged in the pins? hell i dont know, im just throwing stuff out thereAttached Files:
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This is a link to the 1988 9000 series electrical manual:
9000 electrical 1988.pdf
This is a link to the 1996 9000 series electrical manual:
9000 electrical 1996.pdf
Both manuals show the key switch operates a magnetic switch on the engine side of the firewall.
I would start troubleshooting there. -
correct. I've replaced that switch probably 5 times already, including a new one yesterday. I think one of my problems is maybe the aftermarket one I've been using just doesn't hold up..OR, isn't exactly the same? this is the one I've been using since I first replaced it, the last part number listed in the description is the number that was on my original one.
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Those switches come in two flavours. Continuous duty and intermittent duty. You want an intermittent duty switch.
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ahh maybe that is why I have been having problems. the description for the one I posted does say "continuous", although the part number crosses over.
after looking around for the original part #, I found it is superceded by 1693495C91...which is also pricey and tough to find. how would I know if it's intermittent or continuous...most don't say -
I'm having zero luck on the part numbers I posted, however...I found this pollak one by googling "12 volt intermittent duty solenoid". it's rated for 200 amps (double the one i have) , is intermittent, and looks like the same bolt pattern to mount. would this work?
Pollak Intermittent Heavy Duty Solenoid Switch 12V SPST - Bulk Pkg - 52-334 -
That will work fine.
I'm just wondering if you can see any wire numbers and/or what colour the wire is you are jumping power to to get this to crank. I'm curious as to what you have there. -
Part #ST40 from Napa will work also. Been using it for years at my shop.
Heavyd Thanks this.
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