Ignition wiring help

it's the BAT red wire and the ACC green wire that is on the toggle switch..I need to update that in the original post, I mixed it up.

 

I went ahead with the pollak one I posted above, should be in sometime next week and we can see if it fixes the starting issue.

 

well, tried out the new relay today and its even worse lol. truck still wont crank without the toggle, and on this new solenoid the bottom lug doesnt get 12 volt at any time. also whats weird is the box says its 100 amps, but the description said "Current Rating: 600/200 DC Amp"...im guessing its not the same? i connected everything the same but didnt connect anything to the extra small stud to the left, as my original only had 3 studs (2 large, top and bottom, and one small to the right). any ideas?

 

both of the small studs have 12 volt key on. my original had a small wire connected to the right side stud. the bottom big lug should also have to 12 volt key on but does not...with this new solenoid

 

heres a picture, the small stud on the right side has a small green wire, thats where it was on the old solenoid so i put it back. the ground wire is a small white wire that is grounded in between the dash and case..bottom left side.

the picture with the test probe is with key on

 

yes, this is the one that has been failing though causing all my 12 volt key on stuff not to work. the one on the firewall might be my reason why the truck won't crank without the toggle..I'll check that one tomorrow

 

ya, I think we were talking about 2 different solenoids the entire time...I've been talking about my solenoid inside the cab behind the dash. I just went back and read your post and totally missed you mentioned the one under the hood on the firewall. I'm heading out to test that one now, meanwhile I need to put the continuous duty back behind the dash. so I'm guessing this intermittent duty one would be ok to use on the one under the hood?