immortal detroit 1-box

mhyn · Oct 18, 2018

DetroitDon said: ↑

Would it be possible to get a copy of the DD15 ATD manual? I am having repetitive issues with the ACM itself.
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if you have issues wth acm you will need DL software for troubleshooting. the atd manual describes how to remove and install components and little info about troubleshooting.. I can send it wednsday when I get home. I have epa10 atd manual

shatteredsquare · Oct 18, 2018

what smells like burning rubber when the 1-box does a passive regen (while driving)? i got up to Denver elevation this morning and it started cooking like crazy, something is definitely getting roasted down there, smells like melting plastic/rubber, strong enough to smell it in the cab while going 70 mph. i though it was my hoses next the the exhaust but they aren't touching, i can't see in very far past the fairings and nothing has stopped working yet, but i have a feeling it's whatever is near that S pipe on top, that thing gets TOASTY.

2 CHAINS · Oct 22, 2018

shatteredsquare said: ↑

i want to make a 1-box last forever. (forever=1,000,000 miles). my logic is unless the case or core catches fire, anything that could break or fail can be replaced, preferably before it fails and kills something else. the logic being that if you maintain it properly, it won't have to ever catch fire or melt itself.

cheap things i know you can get to:
1. EGR valve, gets coated in soot and gets stuck. ~200k miles is where EGR valve and cooler start causing problems. pull it out and clean it.
2. EGR sensor, gets coated in soot. easy plug and play replacement.
3. doser injector (7th injector?). gets coated in soot and clogs. easy remove and clean, or replace.

expensive things you can't get to:
4. DPF filter actual (the can), needs to be cleaned by 300k miles, or earlier.

vic med on youtube cleans his own EGR valve, and mentioned the sensors are less than 50 bucks new, cheap quick swap. the comments had somebody verify that replacing a dirty sensor showed immediate drastic improvement in engine power, like when new.

I never ever idle except for warm up and cool down, i am under the impression that idling causes 75% of all 1-box related issues due to the exhaust not being hot enough for the 1-box to burn itself clean. I usually block the right lane at 60 mph to keep as much of my paycheck as i can, but occasionally flog the peanuts out of my DD13 to make sure it's blowing itself clean and to give the engine some back pressure to do the same. or to get away from kamikaze lemmings trying to secure an insurance payout.

what else goes bad on the 1-box? i am under the impression there are 5 or 6 other sensors in various places in the process path, but i don't know of any other major components or valves. i've not yet read of the DEF injector going bad, only the doser injector at the front since it gets cooked. if sensors are cheap i'd just as soon replace the SET of them every 100k miles. thanks.
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My cummins also had a back pressure sensor . Map sensor . Delta sensor i belive it was called on driver side all plug and play. I was told they should be reset in computer when replaced because they have counters or hours ran data that calculated could send check light. I never did any resets just plug and play. If i ever went in shop had them clear any faults in ecm.

shatteredsquare · Oct 23, 2018

I think the exhaust got so hot the other day it made one of the exhaust hangars snap in two...there is a U bolt holding the pipe to a metal strap that's bolted to the frame, the metal strap is straight snapped in two. It's a hangar in the middle, between another hangar near the transmission and the big exhaust mount on the back of the cab. I don't know how else that strap would have broken like that, I didn't hit anything and it's between two other stationary mounting points. Maybe going from a 1,000 F regen to a 29 F break at the rest area...

Keepontrucking2016 · Oct 22, 2019

trucker_hank said: ↑

My one box will last all of your one boxes: Mine is sitting on the floor of my garage, while I run straight exhaust pipe to a small muffler...of course I had the ECM reprogrammed to eliminate faults, lower idle boost...thats right, it runs high boost at idle (VGT), and the fan kicks on at 195 and out at 188 degrees.....my truck runs cooler (2014 Cascadia) pulls stronger at half throttle and MPG went from 6.7 loaded and 9 empty to 7.7 loaded and 9.5 empty. (i deadhead about 20% of all miles so it helps)
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Does your exhaust smell bad on cold start or on random occasions I deleted mine but still have the box

294dave · Jul 27, 2020

mhyn said: ↑

if you have issues wth acm you will need DL software for troubleshooting. the atd manual describes how to remove and install components and little info about troubleshooting.. I can send it wednsday when I get home. I have epa10 atd manual
Click to expand...

How can I determine my ACM IS bad,Thy

Trucker trucker trucker · Sep 27, 2020

I just turns 580000 miles and now having issues with scr conversion.. code says it’s a biased nox sensor or a bad 1 box. Had maintaince done about a month ago and still having same issues. Aft nox shows 30psi compared to the foreword nox at 200psi at start up until operating temp is reached. It only acts up wile under a load. It Regins for 45 minutes clears codes . Anyone have any suggestions as to testing wile not running under a load to facilitate the same conditions so the Fraightliner tech can figure it out

Trucker trucker trucker · Sep 27, 2020

shatteredsquare said: ↑

i want to make a 1-box last forever. (forever=1,000,000 miles). my logic is unless the case or core catches fire, anything that could break or fail can be replaced, preferably before it fails and kills something else. the logic being that if you maintain it properly, it won't have to ever catch fire or melt itself.

cheap things i know you can get to:
1. EGR valve, gets coated in soot and gets stuck. ~200k miles is where EGR valve and cooler start causing problems. pull it out and clean it.
2. EGR sensor, gets coated in soot. easy plug and play replacement.
3. doser injector (7th injector?). gets coated in soot and clogs. easy remove and clean, or replace.

expensive things you can't get to:
4. DPF filter actual (the can), needs to be cleaned by 300k miles, or earlier.

vic med on youtube cleans his own EGR valve, and mentioned the sensors are less than 50 bucks new, cheap quick swap. the comments had somebody verify that replacing a dirty sensor showed immediate drastic improvement in engine power, like when new.

I never ever idle except for warm up and cool down, i am under the impression that idling causes 75% of all 1-box related issues due to the exhaust not being hot enough for the 1-box to burn itself clean. I usually block the right lane at 60 mph to keep as much of my paycheck as i can, but occasionally flog the peanuts out of my DD13 to make sure it's blowing itself clean and to give the engine some back pressure to do the same. or to get away from kamikaze lemmings trying to secure an insurance payout.

what else goes bad on the 1-box? i am under the impression there are 5 or 6 other sensors in various places in the process path, but i don't know of any other major components or valves. i've not yet read of the DEF injector going bad, only the doser injector at the front since it gets cooked. if sensors are cheap i'd just as soon replace the SET of them every 100k miles. thanks.
Click to expand...

Trucker trucker trucker · Sep 27, 2020

Trucker trucker trucker said: ↑

I just turns 580000 miles and now having issues with scr conversion.. code says it’s a biased nox sensor or a bad 1 box. Had maintaince done about a month ago and still having same issues. Aft nox shows 30psi compared to the foreword nox at 200psi at start up until operating temp is reached. It only acts up wile under a load. It Regins for 45 minutes clears codes . Anyone have any suggestions as to testing wile not running under a load to facilitate the same conditions so the Fraightliner tech can figure it out
Click to expand...

The filters were baked. 7th injector was cleaned. The def dossier was cleaned. The one box was scoped to make sure we had no build up through and we’re def is put into one box. Can’t scope the conversion chamber on the inlet side the way it was maid.The problem we can’t seem to do is to reproduce the active faults wile not the road. If I just pay for the part nox sensor. The ex’s tinder warranty says it’s maintenance and won’t pay for it.

bigdad7 · Sep 27, 2020

I wonder about the nox sensor at 200 psi at start up makes me think it's bad

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