intermittent power lost to ecm

Cummins hard wired that ground wire directly to the negative on a battery. Threw away the fuse.

 

Mine used to shut down pulling a heavy load under high torque. It was the battery cable from the batteries to the power box. This cable had an inline connector on it. About 4 to 5 iches from the connector, we found the cable to be soft and flexible. Peeled back the rubber and had a lot of green corrosion. What was happening is that under load, the cable would pull apart just enough to lose voltage to the ECXM. N14 requires minimum of 10.5 volts to run. As sson as it would stop, within a fraction of a second it would go again because the cable had more wires making contact with one another. Chagned the cable and solf the truck 5 years later without another problem.

 

to put fuse ore not - depends on manufacter.

N14 DAF application - no kl30 fuse
N14 MAN/ERF application - there is battery + fuse in cabine
Volvo trucks conv. and COE - fuse in battery box
Chenese trucks - pos. wire fuse
SISU - fuse in cabine.

 

To fuse ore not to fuse....? That is the quation...










Look carefully at diagrams and you'll see where to check voltage!

 

I found this out, when my turn signals were going haywire. turned out to be the wire on back of alt. looked good, but when my friend wiggled wire it fell right out of the crimp. just got another end
& recrimped it. had me chasing my tail for weeks. learned something though.
But I put my money on the battery connection. Cut the wire back to clean wire and put a new crimp on.[/

 

What is a DVOM?

 

Man that is my story right there, only mine would cut out & engine stoo light come on for a 2-3 seconds only whn on a right turn, something was pulling,stretching. same with me, pulled back what looked like good cables & saw the green corrosion. but could not tell by just looking at what was visible. after replacing mine, never had a prob & still going

 

similar electrical issue, ended up being the battery cable. Looked perfect from the outside but had a small pin hole in the insulation. 4 gauge cable was almost completely corroded inside. When it was finally found if you tried to bend it in that spot it broke completely in two, but looked perfect.

Not really a help to you but there is a place here locally called Automotive Armature Works that diagnoses electrical issues on vehicles. Found and fixed 7 problems on a guys Ford pickup in about 2hrs for under $300.00. Might do some searching if you can't fix it and see if there is a place similar around you.

 

And mine was right behind the battery box where Kenworth has two million wires all bundled together with zip ties.. I'm sure there had to be a in hole in the rubber as the rubber was soft and bent easily at that spot. Cost was about $150.00 for a piece of cable and labor. Mechanic seemed suspicious as he started right at the power box on the firewall drivers side and worked his way under the truck where he located it.

 

i put new positive battery cables on earlier this year, but not cables from the batteries to the starter.

sometimes when i hit the stater button to start the truck, nothing happens except i can hear a kind of clunk sound. i hit the button again and it starts right up. this is very sporadic.

pablo...no, i haven't and quite honestly i don't know how too. can i get a crash course?

pablo...??? what does this mean?

mrdevildog...pic of relay

heavyhaulerss...i was sitting in a fuel island trying to start the truck back up when this happened.