I want to see a pressure one. Also, the engine is running very poorly and you have active injector codes. I know you said you had them worked on, but maybe you need to replace them with genuine remans ones. Have you diagnosed the injector circuits?
International Maxxforce 10 (2010) error code TDC - SPN164 FMI 1
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by theshepherd, Jan 17, 2019.
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ServiceMaxx Pressure Full Video
ServiceMaxx Pressure Shutdown
my mistake I forgot to link to those ones.
The injector codes are new, the shut down behavior persisted before and after. And im working on those at the moment.
Thank you so much for taking time to help by the way. -
Yep, you have an ICP problem. Your ICP desired is about 1200 psi. This is what the ECM is commanding. Injection control pressure is what it is actually measuring. If you notice at about 2 mins the icp starts to struggle to maintain 1200 psi and gradually drops off to the point the engine can no longer run. The reason it takes a bit to die is usually the oil has to get warm to hot then it gets thinner to the point that a weak pump can't pump it.
theshepherd Thanks this. -
I bought a brand new ICP and the same behavior occurs.....
Pressure monitor with new ICP
When it loses pressure
Anything else come to mind D: -
A new icp what? Sensor, pump, regulator?
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So im not sure what happened to my reply, but anyway, I changed the IPR ( #### pain in the butt )
took off the head, removed the harness, the rail, and replaced the icp sensor.
Servicemax no longer throws any codes, it starts up like a champ, and revs and accelerates perfect. But it still loses pressure and dies. I tried to take a video today but I left out the audio, Ill do one tomorrow. -
These are my new updates - no active injector codes or injector issues, starts and runs a million times better. In fact now I get NO codes at all.... and it still sputters and dies... ( I think I forgot the cruise in one of the videos )
Status 2
Temperature 2
Position 2
Pressure 2
I don't know if this is related to anything but I did notice as it starts to die the exhaust gas temperature starts to rise and I noted a strange noise from the filter, I think. I'm not sure if I'm just making things up though.
Here's the video to the noise, the temp can be seen in temperature. Even more lost now that ipr and icp sensor is changed and I have no codes whatsoever to go off of.
I guess I need to swap out the HPOP before jumping to any other conclusions, no?Last edited: Mar 18, 2019
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I think you have a worn pump that can't maintain pressure when it gets up to temp and the oil become thinner. The only way to confirm this is to get it fully hot and then install a pressure gauge at the end of the high pressure line to dead head the pump. The internal pressure relief is about 4000 psi. You need to full field the IPR by supplying it 12 volts, (no longer than 30 seconds at a time or you will burn it out), then see what you get for pressure. A weak pump cannot push 4000 psi when hot. It will when cold, so this test can fool you.
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So run it until hot (basically when the engine dies) then.. I have an up-to 10k psi liquid pressure gauge. Where would I connect it? and then Jump the IPR for a short bit and get the pressure reading?
Also, here's my newbiest question. Where exactly IS the HPOP? I have another one of these engines sitting in my backyard that I can use as a parts donor.
EDIT:
Last edited: Apr 25, 2019
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The high pressure pump is bolted to the rear of the front cover at the front left of the engine. I'll attach a couple of pictures. The high pressure oil line runs from the pump up to the cylinder head. This is all sort of hiding in behind the fuel filter module. In the picture, the fuel filter module has been removed for clarity. To get access to the line, you have to take some of that off anyway, usually the intake throttle valve at least. For the high pressure line, it has straight threaded fittings with oring seals. You will need to go to a hydraulic shop to get the proper adaptor fittings, or have a separate test high pressure hose made up long enough to see the gauge as the one on the engine is short and very stiff. We had a nice long test hose made up with 10,000 psi gauge at one end the proper fitting at the other end to thread onto the pump. Make sure your hydraulic hose is rated for 5000 psi or better. The IPR, or injection pressure regular is the solenoid valve at the bottom of the hpop. To properly full field it, you need the proper pigtail connector to plug into it too. I'll attach a picture of the ipr. Early valves had the connector right at the valve, later ones have the connector glued with a short pig tail with a different connector, so you need to see what you have there to determine what connector you need. To jump the ipr you only need 12 volts on one pin , ground on the other. Polarity doesn't matter. This will command the pump to pump full pressure. Again, the ipr isn't meant to be jumped with full power under normal use, so do not leave it connected for longer than about a minute. 30 seconds would be better because you can burn out the coil.
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