Thank you! My 1996 flatbed has 12 inch crossmembers front to rear and 32 pair of tie downs in 42 foot trailer. I havent hauled alot of coils in the last year or two because of rates. But I have hauled a few. But there is a huge difference between a trailer that will haul a coil, and a trailer built to haul coils.
Is this ok? (chaining)
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Woodys, Feb 19, 2019.
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Oxbow, cke, spyder7723 and 2 others Thank this.
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I don't load a single coil suicide because the j hooks have no stops on my trailer.
As far as what most do, quite a few are forced to due to the reciever, but most of the time when the way a receiver is limited, it usually is to suicide, not shotgun. Most of the guys who I see preferring to load shotgun are doing so on side kits. On shotgun coils, the tie down over the top does count towards aggregate WLL. Method 3 is acceptable, and that is using only over the top tie downs. From the FMCSA securement book;
Tiedowns, Single Coil Option #3 (Section 3.3.4.3)
Option #3 is the same as Options #1 and #2, except that the two tiedowns that attach through the eye of the coil are replaced with two tiedowns that pass over the front and the rear of the coil.
- Attach at least one tiedown over the top of the coil near the front of the coil.
- Attach at least one tiedown over the top of the coil near the rear of the coil.
- Use blocking or friction mats to prevent forward movement.
Last edited: Feb 24, 2019
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Tug Toy, cke and jamespmack Thank this.
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I have a combine on the deck now. Two other trucks were securing when I was there. I secured mine and then went and checked what they did to see how my securement compared. They both had 6 chains. I know they weren’t using 5/16 I guess I assumed they were using 3/8 like mine maybe it was half itch. I have 8 chains and 8 binders. Idk how you got an extra four binders. I wish you had pictures.cke and jamespmack Thank this. -
20' chains are key....
GI allows anything black to have a chain across it, so we put rubber pads over the axles.
Start behind drive axle with your binder at the end of the chain, extending it out so the binder doesn't hit the axle. Run chain to nearest slot in front of axle and hook in...crank down on the binder. Next, use a J (T) hook on the side, leaving the obligatory loose bit, and run that to a binder hooked to the side rail. Take what's left and throw it across the trailer using a hook under the harvester in between the hydraulic ramps. There are 4 slots there, two for cross chaining and two for direct forward pulls. Use the cross slots for the hooks and run the chain to the binder. Repeat on other side.
The back of the machine is a little trickier, but once again you start with the axle only the binder is forward this time. Crank down the axle and then run the chain up through that big eye just in front of the diffuser and back down to the nearest slot. Use binder at the top. Balance of chain goes towards the hitch, where you'll find more hook slots. Use a J (T) hook on hitch and run binder to side rail.
Grand Island puts out about 3 (maybe more, now) variations on the rear of the machines, so this won't work on *every* one. The front (drive ends) are usually all the same, though.jamespmack, Bean Jr. and Army91W Thank this. -
@Army91W
You wouldn't have happened to have picked up a preloaded green RGN, would you?jamespmack Thanks this. -
[QUOTE="Ruthless, post: 8333966, member: 48360"
@stwik
Sticker on the back said $5.95.[/QUOTE]
These are my favorite if I have to use a snap binder. The threads give you adjustment so you can get a half link tighter if needed. Built in spring latch to keep them closed. No parts to worry about losing.
I use a 2ft pipe to release them though because the latches have to be held open while you pull on the handle and I don't want it to snap and break a finger.
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Wish I would of took the Iowa load instead. Dupuke has a ton loads available.Tug Toy and jamespmack Thank this.
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