It's only 4 wires. Purple should have power with the key on, white is ground and the green and yellow are datalink wires. The datalink wires are connected and you can test for continuity at your diagnostic connector. The yellow goes pin C and green to D at the diag connector. Also make sure the code hasn't changed to inactive or previously active. The codes will not clear totally out by themselves.
LesBrinson, when you say your power keeps cutting out, you mean while you are on the road the truck just dies?
From your experience Heavy, have you run across anyone that you've assisted with this low power issue, or similar issue with power, that said that clearing this code resolved it?
No. I would suspect a failing air control valve or weak fuel pump. I think you are right in that sweet spot where you have a mechanical issue such as low boost or fuel pressure that is causing the low power but not enough for the ECM to trigger a fault code yet.
I have a 2012 Maxxforce 13 and had the exact same issue you are having. Unfortunately mine was the fuel pump. If you cycle the key like I did and it corrects the issue I would have the pump pressure checked.
I appreciate the insight Moose! I am still driving it this way, and cycling the key works like a charm to give full power for the times I need it. After driving it like this for so long now, I know that the full power lasts for right around 3 or 4 minutes before it goes back to like 3/4ths power, which is fine with me. I only need full power when going up mountains or relatively long inclines. I've gotten used to driving it like this, and have determined it's not hurting anything more than any other wear and tear, or it would seem that way at least. I really think it is something electrical, because if it were mechanical I would think the problem would have worsened by now. It's been at least 5 months since I initially experienced this low power issue and I've been driving it regularly throughout this time, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (now I need to find some wood to knock on).
Wow. Really? How is it driving now that you got it replaced? Were you having the same issue where you cycle the key and full power returned?
Is it logging any codes? Here is a post of mine in another thread with how the pump works and how it can lead to lower power. 2013 Prostar Plus Question - Need your opinion