Well I know this topic has been beat to death but I have my first maxxforce egr cooler repair coming up and have a few questions. I am a municipal mechanic with a fleet of 14 tandem plough trucks and all but 5 are Workstars with maxxforce 13. We buy extended warranties but a few of the older units are off warranty. The unit I have is having low egr flow codes. I removed the front cover off the front of the low temp egr cooler and found it very plugged and evidence of coolant contaimination which is as I have learned is most likely a sign the high temp cooler has failed.
1. I know the high temp cooler core is removed through the back using a puller but I am wondering how the low temp core is removed is it removed using a puller aswell and if so is it the same puller as used on the high temp or a different one? Does not look to have enough room to use a puller at front of cooler. Or is the low temp cooler housing sepperated from the high temp cooler and core removed after it is removed from engine? I am also aware there is a alignment tool required if the housings are sepperated.
2. Since the low temp cooler is plugged, and high temp cooler is most likely leaking is it more cost effective to buy a complete new cooler with cores and housing already assembled or replace both high and low cores into existing housing?
3. while I am repairing cooler should egr valve be replaced while doghouse is removed and everything disassembled or if no egr valve faults leave it be?
Not even sure if it is worth while for me to do the job as opposed to send to dealer as we have a 2011 11lt, and 2 2012 13lt and all the rest are 2015 and newer maxxforces with scr so debating if 3 units is worth the egr tooling? I just don't like sending to many jobs out.
I have seen quite a few vids on high temp core removal but not much info on low temp side core removal.
Any info provided is appreciated
Don't take my word for granted but cold side core can be removed without puller (although there's one for that purpose)
I believe that you'd have to remove or at least move the fan shroud away in order to have enough room to get your cold side core out. That core can be initially pryed out, then pulled out.
When it comes to hot side core, you can avoid buying puller #1 as long as you are willing to make one yourself ( read this thread and look at attached pictures 2013 maxforce 13 low power ) and #2 use aftermarket core like M1M that doesn't require puller for a core reinstallation. With all the work involved I'd replace egr valve, crossover tubes feeding egr, at least clean doser injector or replace it if milage is around 300k. O2 sensor would be good idea too.
I get the motivation behind the OEM parts. Don't take me wrong but I want you to keep in mind that OEM hot side cooler core are prone to fail at 100k mark but some of them will last much longer. Because of that uncertainty I would personally opt out for M1M core but like I said I understand reasoning behind it.
In regards to bent puller, make sure it is straight (I'm assuming that the problem is with bent one or more rod's) for it will give you hell while removing and installing, it will go out of alignment and you don't want to jeopardize cooler housing threads being damaged.
One more thing, don't forget to use vacuum coolant filler tool when refilling coolant as failure to do so may have a great impact on longevity of your newly installed parts and the system all together. Wish you luck, Jacobbowtieboy77 Thanks this.