Metal Pipe Securment

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Cisco Kid, Mar 29, 2017.

  1. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    As luck would have it I pulled another load of pipe today, with a partial layer on top. Note I belly wrap the front and back of the top partial layer, so there is no need to chock it. I treat the top partial layer and the last (second) layer as if they were each the top layer, in terms of making sure I have a penalty strap within the first five feet and at least a strap every 10 feet.

    Note the straps in between the dunnage sucks the pipe together tight. Don't be afraid to torque those pipes. I went back and forth tightening straps until I had them all singing at least an Alto G before heading out.

    I also put a half twist on either side of the top layer, where it will catch the wind. This reduces vibrations and keeps the straps from working loose.
    IMG_20170406_143248459.jpg IMG_20170406_143215946_HDR.jpg
     
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  3. Blackshack46

    Blackshack46 Road Train Member

    Do you tighten the belly wrap after the other straps across the top layer? I would think tightening the belly first would make the pipe in the belly fold up?

    I ask because im starting a p/t gig hauling flats. Gaining knowledge.
     
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  4. DDlighttruck

    DDlighttruck Road Train Member

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    Do you use a different color strap for the belly on purpose?
     
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  5. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Yes. Those are 40' straps.
     
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  6. DDlighttruck

    DDlighttruck Road Train Member

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    Good idea. I want shorter ones, was thinking of going red just to make it obvious.
    We have yellow 33' and orange 30' I think on a couple low steps.
     
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  7. Chewy352

    Chewy352 Road Train Member

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    I never was able to convince my company to buy 40 or 50 footers. Sure are nice for belly wraps I imagine.
     
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  8. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Here's another kind of common "pipe load" I haul. These are "bottom tools".

    Note that in this case I used 2" straps for the cinches. If I had used 4" straps I would end up with the wrap around strap on top of the side of the first strap. This prevents being able to get it tight, leaving the side away from the winch flapping around. With a 4" strap I COULD diagonal it about 30° across the deck, but then it puts too much torque on the "pipe" and can cause walking dunnage. The 2" strap is narrow enough to be pretty straight across the deck without binding up the straps on the wrap around.

    I put a half twist on either side of every strap. 240 miles in some rough construction zones and every strap was still singing Alto.
    IMG_20170407_094207685.jpg
     
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  9. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

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    Nice Lepton. My straps don't sing. They snap. That half twist would quiet them down for sure. Always the little things.
     
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  10. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Good question. I tighten the bellies lightly to draw the pipes together, then reef on the down force straps before getting back on the bellies. If I saved the bellies for last without drawing the pipe together it makes it harder to pull against the down force resistence.

    Pipes popping up is sometimes a problem, then I have to back off the bellies. Rarely I will add dunnage on top and strap over them to keep pipes from popping up. Usually that happens on small diameter, light pipe.
     
  11. ChaoSS

    ChaoSS Road Train Member

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    I sure hope you scaled that behemoth load there, looks pretty heavy.
     
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