Mud Flap hanger question

Measure and cut the mud flaps. The angle ones are best because if your ever slid way underneath the trailer and you come across a steep driveway, the standard ones will get caught on the landing gear possibly, the angle ones WON’T.

 

Most mudflaps I've driven weren't that style.

A bracket on the frame with 1 inch square steel bar is what I've had. One end is angled 90* and slides inside the bracket with one them curvy cotter pins that keeps it from bouncing up and out.

 

The trick to removing and installing the spring loaded ones is to twist the bracket before removing. Everything stays intact. New ones will come that way. Mount them and give it a twist. If you have one with a broken spring and want to replace it, make 1 good one out of 2, or lose the spring inside by mistake. Take bolt off if needed to hook new spring to. Using a winch feed the spring into the hanger, Install the bolt and nut, and stretch the spring far enough to hook the u bolt type bracket. Stay out of the way of the spring. Lol. They can be fixed. My u bolts are worn on both. They can be replaced. No need to weld like original.

 

The bolt holes were torched out because those light bar hangers have a different bolt spread then the Betts style oe uses. Usually 2-1/2” vs. 2” some are even close to 3”.
The bracket you left bolted on is part of the hanger and stays with hanger. Just scrap it. If you were to get new light bar style like you took off that bolt plate “bracket” will already be part of the new assembly.

 

Yes. Look at all the pictures of the hangers posted in this thread for reference. The Betts style hangers that @AModelCat cat posted and the light bar style you posted. The distance between the bolts “studs” on the frame mount end of hangers are visually different.

 

Make sure you measure your trucks bolt hole spacing before you buy hangers to make sure they will match otherwise you will have to punch new holes.