Needing advice on keeping an engine good

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Unidewking, Nov 16, 2018.

  1. Unidewking

    Unidewking Light Load Member

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    Ok

    Thank you for the input from yur experience. The hills i downshift on most of the time i was barely up to 45mph so i would like to think i didnt have momentum. She has taken those same hills whilst i lugged her down to 1100. She never bucked or chugged but seein as my boss took forever to find the perfect little truck with everytjing he was looking for i would rather keep it working as long as it is on the farm. If it doesnt hurt the motor to charge a hil at 16 to 1700 rpms then ill proly do that, but other wise i just kind keep her at 1500 and itll take the small hills. On the highways when getting up to speed im sure i will see a better performance if i run her to 1600 and maybe do like you say progressivly shift. She builds boost wonderfully up until 9th, then she takes a little longer. This truck is an 07 so i assume an 07 motor. Cant say if the previous owners turned her down or not but i make it work. As i said in the original post i feel a 13 speed wouldve been a better mate. I feel motors should have the power on reserve so that if you need it you can use it but otherwise kust keep em up a little and take little gears. I feel that keeps and engine working a long time, but i cohld be wrong.
     
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  3. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    Only the ones my boss had when Cat told him they would do fine pulling 105500 in the NW. We were all happy when the trucks were repowered with 6nz’s cuz the c13’s were dogs.
     
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  4. Zeviander

    Zeviander Road Train Member

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    CAT's don't often like going over 1700, be careful, they'll shake themselves apart. Got to find the sweet spot for your motor and keep it there all the time. Just find the right gear for the hill and just keep the foot to the floor and watch the pyrometer. Don't let it get over 1000F.

    Once you get used to the truck, you should be able to look at an upcoming hill and anticipate what gear it'll pull it in. Practice downshifting on an uphill, it'll save you from missing a shift and having to start out fresh and climb it in 1st (I'd assume getting a 10-speed to upshift on any grade with weight is near impossible).
     
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  5. Zeviander

    Zeviander Road Train Member

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    Probably tuned around 400 and 1650 for "fuel economy". Our 470 C-13's have pulled B-trains at 137,500 just fine through Ontario. Slow up the hills, sure, but they get to the top every time and keep going down the other side.
     
  6. Unidewking

    Unidewking Light Load Member

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    Ill try and remember not to shake her. It does not have a pyrometer and i doubt my boss will go for putting one in. Proly would think it is too much work and to just keep dropping gears if im worried, but ill ask. In honesty i dont think i have floored it going up a hill yet. In my head i just get to thinking if i floor it at the bottom of the hill then when she starts to pull down ill soot it up and choke her, thats the gas trucks in my system. I do question if an acert motor would allow access fuel to leave thru the exhaust if floorin it. Would the IVA emission system prevent the fuel from leaving and clog her up? Also, and this makes me think im a wannabe, but i can only anticipate hills and if ill have to drop a gear based on if ive encountered it before. I get to going off repetion because i haul the grain from the fields. I do try and size em up the first time and decide if i think it calls for gain speed and rpms before hitting it or if i can just keep cruisin at 1500 in tje gear im in and just apply fuel as i climb the hill. But im new so if im wrong help me out. And yes upshifting a 10 on a hill is impossible and i dont do it. I know the truck can build boost up to 7th but thats depending on the hill. If i know i cant then i just stay low and let the puddlejumpers get their panties in a twist. Ive missed a gear a few times on hills so far. I float, and hit the gears without grinding about 75 to 80 percent of the time. Want to get real good with no grinding but have never sat down with a true trucker to watch and pattern my rpm throttlin
     
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  7. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    They were 470, he wasn’t concerned about fuel economy. Cat sold him on the weight savings and “excellent performance” and when the first one shelled out with less than 20k miles on it pulling South Pass he knew he messed up. Most of the time they weren’t bad but you start pulling a 6-7% grade that lasts for 8 miles and they couldn’t get out of their own way.
     
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  8. loudtom

    loudtom Road Train Member

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    I try to keep my oil pressure between 45-60 PSI. The hotter the oil gets, the less pressure I get at the same RPM. The best way for me is to climb using only 10-15 lbs of boost, which is pretty gentle on the accelerator. When the oil pressure gets low, I'll drop a gear. If the hill is long enough, eventually I will hit a gear that holds my speed while keeping the boost low and oil pressure good. This saves me fuel and I run about 10 degrees cooler on longer hills.

    It might be different considering I have a Volvo with an I-Shift, but I would drive any engine the same way. To me it's important to keep the oil flowing good, the heat down, less stress on the components, and saving fuel. Oil pressure and boost seem to work better for me than a specific RPM to stay at. This is what I think works best for me, but it's only my opinion and there's no data to back it up other than it hasn't blown up yet.
     
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  9. Unidewking

    Unidewking Light Load Member

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    Thank you for the input. Oil pressure drives at 40 lr above a little. Not sure what viscosity oil is in it. I have no boost gauge and no egt gauge so i cant watch boost. Rpms and how mucb throttle i give it is how i drive. I dont think i go past half throttle. Give her a little fuel before the hil to build boost and momentum then let her go down if she wants
     
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  10. Pumpkin Oval Head

    Pumpkin Oval Head Road Train Member

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    I drove a Sterling daycab with a c13 pulling grain trailers. 10 spd. No pyrometer on it, but I watched the coolant temp going up hills on paved roads and I would downshift if the temp went up, and it would go up, depending on the grade. If the engine was lugged hard, the temp would tell me to downshift. I was always loaded to 80k. I usually had the pedal to the floor. That motor worked hard....the smallest engine I have driven.

    On gravel roads I wouldnt go over 45 mph, or 9th gear when empty. Loaded I was Usually up shifting through the gears for almost a mile, and then I would have to turn and go through all the gears again. That was when I taught myself to float the gears, as I was constantly shifting. I might go 5 miles and upshift 50 times in those 5 miles. I might make 5 trips a day...and upshift 250 times a day loaded plus 250 times empty.

    I got very good at floating gears in a short time.
     
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  11. Unidewking

    Unidewking Light Load Member

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    Thank you for your input. Sounds like you were in a very similar situation as i am. My boss bought a short hopper bottom to keep his turning radius short so have hit 80k, i think i got to 75 or a little over with 798 bushel of beans. Anyway, yeah i have the concept of floating but sometimes wonder if im executing it wrong. Say on level ground when upshifting i take her to 14 or 1500 and then wait till 1100 and drop into the next gear, works most of the time. Downshifting on flats ill let her drop to 1100 and rev up while slightly holding her against the notch till she wants to fall in, little grinding. On hills though having to downshift i find i hit the gears perfectly as long as i take the rpms high enough but idk if thats right or if everyone has to just do what it takes to not lose a gear. I honestly feel like a wannabe but im not kicking a clutch that much. Pullin out of a gear really screws up my shifting and timing like 90% of the time, any advice on that?
     
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