New truck for 85k

This. Thumbs up. Did you read it? Read it again, just in case.

 

And then semi will be longer lived then any size of pick up.

 

I'd look for a used 4th gen like 16-18 and try to find a deal on something even if you have to take a trip to go get it. Those are proven work horses. 19+ are hit or miss it seems. Try to find one that has the Aisin auto or G56 manual and a truck that hasn't been messed with too much.

 

A 3500 is not built to pull 25 000 lbs a 100000 miles a year.

 

Fuel mileage with a 1 ton is going to be crap too. Probably the same or worse than a single axle truck. Used to drive an F550 and I was LUCKY to break 10 mpg running about 19,000 lbs total gross weight.

 

Realistically though he might have a hard time starting out with anything bigger than a 3500. Can't lease a truck onto a carrier unless you have one already, and I don't think any insurance company writing bobtail/NTU policies will start a policy on a big truck unless you have a carrier to lease to or a DOT/MC number set up for yourself. 14,000 lb GVWR truck you can buy one and put a normal auto policy on and then figure out how to get started, then you can easily upgrade to a bigger truck once all that is set up.

 

I agree that is pushing it. I would not ask a 1 ton DRW to routinely run heavier than 26k gross if I were expecting it to last, capable as modern ones might be. 20k gross is kind of a handful with my 7.3 old girl. Starts putting too much stress on the brakes and driveline.

 

According to my IFTA I average 9.5 mpg all miles. My truck and trailer weigh about 18k empty and I get almost 12 mpg empty. At 33-35k gross the worst I get is 8.5 mpg. It kinda depends on the drivers. I run 60-65 mph tops and going uphill I let the truck go as fast as it can without ever going over 2k rpm.
Drove my new truck bobtail from CO to NY and then back to IN and I haven't scaled it yet but I am guessing it weighs about 18-20k empty and averaged 12 mpg. I'm praying for 10 mpg after the build with 2 units on it.

 

5th gens are fine if you buy the correct one for the job. The HO motors are not built for 100k a year hauling heavy in my opinion. The HO are "performance" engines to pull your rv/boat a few times a year. The de-rated chassis cabs are more reliable and adding the Max Tow package helps a lot with options added like dual transmission coolers among other stuff.
It doesn't hurt putting in a gas additive that helps lube the fuel pump and clean the injectors and avoid running the truck over 2k rpm especially uphill. Keep the turbo at 50% and watch the temps.

This is all just my opinion and I have no proof for any of this

 

Price of fuel is a nightmare right now thanks to Uncle Jowe. A year ago it was a buck cheaper which was delicious lol. Now I'm pulling out all the tricks to get the mpg as good as possible. Fuel conditioners, 30wt oil instead of 40, new air filter. I might drain the rear end and go back to a 75W90 instead of 140.

Those Amish guys start building your bed yet? Maybe you can sell this guy your 3500 lol.