NO START 2010 MAXXFORCE DT

So it was in limp home mode, the DPF is clogged.

Phew

 

By the way, as an auto repair guy, typically Cat converter's don't just clog themselves. It's usually the end result of a leaky fuel injector. That said because of all the problems I've read about regarding these motors and their fuel systems. In your opinion, should I just spend the money and replace the injectors and pucks now?

 

It's great preventative maintenance on an older truck if you don't mind the initial expense. They will fail one-by-one eventually. Might as well start fresh.

 

I got my DPF back today, they blew it, cooked it, then blew it again, she came back green when it was all done.

So, then that's what I'm saving up for, injectors and pucks. The $3,600 injector pump is leaking a little too, so that's already on the list as well. I figure if I replace the stuff that's known to cause problems in one shot I'll be glad I did later on.

Thanks for all the help, this thread has been amazing for breaking a gasoline guy into some diesel basics.

 

So, I just took her out for three service calls, AKA extended road test. As always, while I was doing that I pushed all the buttons too, a good old fashioned function test make sure everything works just like I do every time I get into her.

There is most definitely something wrong with my fuel/air delivery system. The DPF is already starting to smoke un-burnt fuel... It idles fine, and under WOT (wide open throttle) it accelerates as expected. What it can't do is maintain any speed below 55 MPH. Under 1,400 RPM under moderate engine load she starts to load up like the fuel mixture is too rich, the turbo isn't compressing enough air, or the rings are shot. They it just starts behaving out of nowhere, for 20 minutes or so, under light engine load, then right back to smoking, bucking hesitating etc. I kept an eye on engine oil pressure, not sure if it's related to the high pressure fuel delivery system you guys mentioned leaks, split o-ring. Anyway under a load moderate to WOT, engine oil pressure is between 50 and 60 PSI, dumps down to 30ish at idle. I noticed that the engine oil pressure was always closer to 50 PSI when she starts to run rough, mashing the throttle, getting it to downshift seems to help consistently, she blows a bunch of smoke, like she's regenerating, then takes off.

I bought a medium duty code reader that's due here tomorrow, so I'll scan her when I get the tool.

Any ideas for some standard maintainence??

I was thinking just throw a couple of fuel filters at it first, in case they're contaminated.
I already ran some diesel injector cleaner through it, two fuel tanks, she's on straight diesel now.
**** I found a "Do not add diesel additive to this truck" note taped to the dash... ****
yes two tanks went through her already...

I forgot to mention, the Parked regen button does nothing, while parked at operating temperature with e-brake on and parked, if i push the button it flashes green then shuts off with a few seconds, that's it.

 

No engine, fuel or exhaust related codes, just scanned it. The only thing that keeps coming back is axle 1 right wheel speed sensor, that's it.

So fuel injectors??

 

I'll start with the regen switch. If it doesn't need one, you can't start one.
At this point, we are just guessing. I would scan for codes, do a visual inspection, connect ServiceMaxx diagnostic software and do a 0-60 mph road test and record a snap shot. I would check fuel pressure, exhaust back pressure, intake manifold pressure, battery volts. I would run an air management test and check the mean air flow during egr valve operation. You can get so much information from those two tests. If you do not have this ability, you are really restricted to what you can do and right back to 50/50 guess work. You can disconnect your exhaust right before the DOC and road test again. If it runs the same, you know you have engine problems. If it runs great, you know you have after treatment problems.

 

I dropped her off at my local Hino/International dealer... and they found nothing.

She has one code, 2335, "ICP unable to build at crank"

The tech performed an injector disable test, they all passed.

 

for almost $400 they found nothing... OMG this truck is going to ruin me

 

Update, I put a band aid on it somehow, not really sure what did it because I bought fuel somewhere else today.

I ran her over 120 miles, no problems!!

First I ran 2 tanks of injector cleaner through her, nothing, tried the eco button, nothing, mechanic, nothing, dumped, 1 quart of 80w 90 in the crank case when I got home to thicken the oil up a bit, pressed the "Eco" button again, and by chance had to buy fuel from a different station and all of a sudden she's running better. I was leaning toward contaminated fuel, but I've always used the Shell near my house, by chance went to a Speedway today. My other truck didn't have fuel problems, so the Shell diesel fuel worked fine in a CAT 3116. I tried the eco button at first to see if I saw any changes to how rich it was running, it ran worse the first time I tried that, so I think it's safe to assume that isn't it either.

This morning i went back to the shop and leveraged them to have a second look at her because she immediately started acting up after I left, check engine light on before I left the lot. They played ball, the tech there watched the commanded fuel pressure vs actual pressure at the high pressure oil side, numbers were close, but she loads up and dumps fuel.

We were talking about a possible high pressure oil leak under the valve cover (internal leak) because of what I read on here and agreed that playing with viscosity might be a good way to manipulate that system a bit.

Your thoughts??