Oil Change

I never took heed the the warnings of DO not mix oils or grease. when I drain rears or trans not ALL of any of it comes out. there will always be some oil in the rear, trans & engine. the residue left does no harm to my knowledge. when changing my oil,I usually take my oil plug when I get in off the road. oil is hot. puncture both filters & let drain. then the next day usually 15 hours or more later I continue with the servicing. even with that time I am sure I could drop oil pan & wipe out a good amount of oil. what ever old oil is left, I just do not see it ever becoming a problem. when you have a shop change rear oil or trans, they do not let it drain until no drips. there is always going to be old oil on the gears.

 

I agree with leaving the unit to drain, when I was working on a unit that was going to be opened up I would add a gallon of ATF Dex3 and run the unit while I washed it, then drain the pan.
I would lift the engine and insert steel spacer blocks between the springs, giving better clearance to the front axle.
I would put an air line in the manual oil preasure guage hose, and add air to the system, low preasure to start and then high preasure. Then I would punch the filter, and leave the preasure on. With the preasure on high, I could even drain the Jake Heads. I tried real hard to leave the unit overnight, and start on it in the morning. Doing that cut down on the dripping and cleaned it out, unless you try it you will not believe how clean and how few drips, you get.
On Lucas oil aditives the only rejection I ever saw on a transmission was an 18 speed, some of the gears had burnt up, It was pulled and the top taken off, the Eaton rep, came over and took 2 seconds to look and tell the gear man no warrenty coverage. The oil they recommend has a certain flow pattern, if you change that you change the cooling and lubrication ability.
Our gear people just said you can not fix stupid.
Just a thought!

 

Some mechanic told me Lucas does nothing, but sludge up the engine in the long run. People will always talk so I can't believe anything they say.

 

what about motor kote?

 

If you have to or want to mix the two, stay with the same brand to avoid an additive conflict.

 

Oh boy, the old group III is not a synthetic game. Hey, lubes made from whale oil in the 1800's are still classified as "true" synthetics! Would you like to drop some of that into your engine? Not me. ALL oil are carbon based molecule chains. What they are derived from is unimportant. Group III is made from petroleum base stocks and Group IV is made from Ethylene gas which is derived from natural gas. Actually BOTH are petroleum carbon sources.

The differences, not much, between a group III and group IV are minuscule at best. Oh, and a group V is ANY oil or lube that doesn't fit into get Group I - Group IV classification. You can check that out yourself. As for any differences between Group III and Group IV, here is a simple read....

http://machinerylubrication.com/Read/533/base-oil-trends

Don't waste time getting all caught up in the marketing hype that surrounds this "synthetic" debate.

Regarding additives like Lucas, MK, etc, one has to ask the simple question.... what is so bad about modern engine oils that they seem to need help from something else? What is unstable about a modern engine oil that one needs to add LOS to it and stabilize it? MK is an interesting cat in and of itself. From what I have seen, it relies on cholorinated paraffin to do what it does. Some argue that it is a boron based product. Boric acid has been found to be a good friction reducer, but most modern oils contain some of that already. It is cheap to make, which makes me wonder why MK is so expensive on the shelf. LOS has ben shown via virgin sampling at oil labs to be nothing more than a 250w base oil. It has no additives of any kind. It is just an oil thickener. Unless you had an engine on it's last leg and was going thru oil almost as fast as it was using fuel, why would you want to thicken the oil so that it takes longer to get thru the engine on a cold morning?

 

Only use Lucas on a engine with lots of wear. Just to extend the motor a little while longer until a rebuild can be done.

 

Or if you are selling it... Quiets down the engine...

 

I think that maybe the oil guy on the "TDI Nerd" forum I belong to.....

 

If you look at the oil aditives on the shelf at the parts store and do some research you will find 99.9% are BS my personal favorite is Prolong, you remember the advertsment, driving with the oil drained, well it ended up being mineral oil with red dye, I just wonder how many people bought it and how many still do.
I have worked on engines all my life and have seen most every additive available, I have seen the effects of using products.
I was told many years ago that oil is the cheapest overhaul you will not need, I worked on a fleet of trucks that spent their life pulling 144,000lbs over two mountains, The life of the engine was directly related to the oil change interval the longer you ran the oil the shorter till it had a problem, most of these ran N14's.
Just a thought!