Operation Insulation.

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Elroythekid, Jun 26, 2017.

  1. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    You have to remove the inner panel to gain access to the window ND lock stuff and that's all I stuck it to so just unbolt it and remove it. It's all torx screws and you have access to all them. Shouldn't have to remove any of it. I did go over a few of the screws that hold the inner window stuff but a knife an 5 mind will clean the heads off for access.
     
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  3. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    This pic shows the black inner panel. That's all that's covered so it is still easily removable for window service.
    20170611_175518.jpg
     
  4. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    Yes. Yes and yes. The dash and some of the wiring under it was a huge mess along with the drivers door. They had it apart to service window or locks and and spun threaded inserts so they just cut the screws and left it. They tightened the inner plastic panel too tight and cracked it in a few places so that door was a challenge to get all the rattles out.
     
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  5. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    Did a little work on the floor today. 3 layers thick. Wirez sound deadner, underlay and carpet. Got a close loop commercial carpet. Some of the cabinets back in. Have a few hours tomorrow am to tackle a little more.
     

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  6. dlstruck

    dlstruck Medium Load Member

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    Can you explain that part? You combines 4 sheets of 3/4 and 2 sheets of 1" for a total of 5"? Or you just mean you used 3/4 in some spots and 1" in others?

    Looks great though, hows the sound with the floor in? Have you driven it yet?
     
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  7. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    3/4 in the rear wall. 1" in the side walls most spots, some were only 3/4 " deep tho, I used the 1" in the roof panel. I cut a cess holes in the plastic that's bonded to the outer skin and shoved lots of Ruxul in it. Haven't driven it since yesterday so not sure how much the floor has changed it. Hopefully finish it completely next couple of days. Have a NE inverter/charger to install and wire. Lots left to do.
     
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  8. ShooterK2

    ShooterK2 Road Train Member

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    I'm really diggin' this thread. Something I've always wondered: do you know what your bobtail tare weight was before you started? Curious how much weight you gained by doing this. I used to mess with car audio, and I know for a fact that sound deadener is some heavy stuff.

    I'd love to do this to my KW, but I have to stay as light as possible. Earplugs don't weigh much. Lol.
     
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  9. dngrous_dime

    dngrous_dime Road Train Member

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    It's been years since I read the article, but a MUCH cheaper alternative to DynaMat is the ice and water shield stuff you can get at Lowe's. Self stick asphalt-based sheet on a roll. In the study they did, it worked nearly as well as the most expensive stuff, but at (I think?) 1/4 to 1/3 the cost. Fairly thin, too.

    Disclaimer, that wasn't thermal insulation they were testing, just for vibration dampening, which is primarily what car audio guys want/need. I'll eventually get around to doing it on the GF's Ranger, because it's got excessive road noise.
     
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  10. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    The ice and water shield doesn't have the thermo barrier on it and it has a tar smell to it, I looked at that suff but decided for a couple hundred dollars I'd go with the good stuff.
     
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  11. Elroythekid

    Elroythekid Road Train Member

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    I didn't weigh it but this truck is really light it's below 19k full tanks so it's not really a priority to me. Most of the new trucks at 21k + so I'm good. I'm sure I added 100 lbs maybe 150? No more than that.
     
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