Parking at home

My driveway is the width of a 2x4 thick and I've taken my bobtail empty onto my property every time I go home since I started driving big trucks. It cracked it in a few small spots but it was already cracking. I would say like 5" minimum. Even less with some good rebar in it.

 

I know very little about the science of building a driveway, but me I would be doing what @kylefitzy said, at least initially. Let the truck crush and settle the rocks, and have the ground go through a freeze thaw cycle. You'll probably find that you'll need to add some more rock to some of the softer areas. Then add the little rock and run over that for a year and finally pave or asphalt it. In my opinion a strong base will do a lot to keep the pavement from cracking.

 

Yes and with 4,000 psi concrete it's more than enough to support an 80,000 lbs loaded truck. Speaking from experience here with the concrete and the gravel parking area. I had that concrete poured in the shop building I built on my old property it supported my rig just fine with no cracks. The Mennonites who poured that concrete and built the shop recommended that as that's what they had in their own building that their own semi truck loaded with lumber was always parked on, and wasn't cracked up.

 

As some have suggested you can just use road base, however the down side is road base is suspectable to sinking if it does get water logged and you park on it, whereas concrete will remain firm, concrete is going to cost you a few pennies more, it will be ideal if you want to work on the truck as well, bottom line is its your decision.

 

No it is not.

I have a gravel drive, I had parked here a fully loaded truck in the drive a few times with no issues, even with heavy rain.

Here is what I used. It worked, it was all put in, in two days and had not ever given me any issues for the past 7 years.

AgTec Geocell Ground Grid 8 Inch, 8.4ft x 27.4ft – Heavy Duty Cellular Confinement, Truck Parking, Building Reinforcement, Gravel Driveway, Road Paver

Follow the instructions.

 

Fiberglass reinforced. No re-bar. I mean i used to think like you, that's what I wanted, they could've "upsold" me on a 6", 8" or whatever unnecessary thickness but they talked me out of it. Talk to someone that pours it all the time and knows what works and what doesn't.

 

Some of y'all have never worked in excavation and it shows lol.

1st off, who cares about the neighbors wants/desires unless he's footing the bill.

The name of the game in building a good aggregate driveway and parking area is compaction. I'll say that again...compaction.

4" of road base after compaction (100% rate) then use 3/4-1" of septic rock. This is large enough to keep it out of your tires and will lock in once driven on. Small gravl is trash for driveways.

 

People need to learn modern construction materials. 4" of modern 8000 PSI concrete is stronger than 6" of 4000 PSI concrete for example. And 8000 is by far not the strongest concrete around.

Point being, thickness doesn't matter as much as the concrete rating.

 

So you're saying I shouldn't have used QuickKrete as a foundation for my house? Why didn't anyone tell me?

 

If you're not ready to pave, kylefitzy is correct

Scrape off any vegetation/dirt spoils.

Put road fabric down - well worth the money if you have bad soil. (Around here it's less than a dollar a lineal foot).

Put down a bigger crushed rock like a 3"-. This will pack really well and make a good parking area.

Down the road if you want to dial it in top it with 3/4"-.

Plus, if you do it this way, you can have it paved or concrete poured in the future with minimal sub grade work.

And as far as concrete, my shop has a 5" concrete slab and has held up great, but I put a lot compacted crushed rock beneath it.